View Full Version : Ruger Mini-14 and 5.56 ammo
Bitter Muppet
12-21-2007, 09:09 PM
Hello!!!
This one's been bothering me for a while and I figure I'd bring it to the experts.
We all know the Ruger Mini-14 is a chambered .223 and not 5.56. We all know that although they are very similar, the two caliber aren't exactly the same.
The problem is that I didn't exactly know all of this back years ago when I bought the rifle and tons of 5.56 ammo.
Now due to my location I rarely get to shoot the rifle and have probably only fired less than 500 rounds through it.
So here's the question:
Does firing 5.56 through a Mini 14 hurt the rifle or risk a catastrophic malfunction?
It seems like the common answer I get from experts is that you shouldn't do it but they do it all the time and it really doesn't matter.
Let me know what you all think.
ThanX
Albatross
12-21-2007, 09:12 PM
AFAIK, the rounds are interchangeable with almost no difference. That is very interesting, that they experts say don't to it. Would like to hear more about this from other who know more than I.
Hollis
12-21-2007, 09:17 PM
Hello!!!
This one's been bothering me for a while and I figure I'd bring it to the experts.
We all know the Ruger Mini-14 is a chambered .223 and not 5.56. We all know that although they are very similar, the two caliber aren't exactly the same.
The problem is that I didn't exactly know all of this back years ago when I bought the rifle and tons of 5.56 ammo.
Now due to my location I rarely get to shoot the rifle and have probably only fired less than 500 rounds through it.
So here's the question:
Does firing 5.56 through a Mini 14 hurt the rifle or risk a catastrophic malfunction?
It seems like the common answer I get from experts is that you shouldn't do it but they do it all the time and it really doesn't matter.
Let me know what you all think.
ThanX
Look on your rifle. The biggest difference is that 5.56 can be hotter than a .223. For practical purpose is that they are the same in that most firearms will do both, but not the older ones that were only for the .223 (maybe).
I think this is more a academic/techweenie debate than anything else. I have shot 5.56 out of my Ruger and have not noticed any ill effect. Look at the primer on a spent case, look for perforation, flattening, or dimpling.
Also maybe best is to contact Ruger. if your concern.
Bitter Muppet
12-21-2007, 09:25 PM
Look on your rifle. The biggest difference is that 5.56 can be hotter than a .223. For practical purpose is that they are the same in that most firearms will do both, but not the older ones that were only for the .223 (maybe).
I think this is more a academic/techweenie debate than anything else. I have shot 5.56 out of my Ruger and have not noticed any ill effect. Look at the primer on a spent case, look for perforation, flattening, or dimpling.
Also maybe best is to contact Ruger. if your concern.
That's a good idea to look at the spent cases. I'll be going out in the next couple weeks and should be able to test that out.
Thank you!
I have used / carried the Mini-14 during the course of my employment for over 20 years and it eats everything stuffed into it to this point. Although not very accurate. I'm not of fond of the weapon but it feeds the 556 military 55 grn, blitz 52 grn, military green tip, 64 grn, 55 grn and everything else they have issued us during this period. This includes SAW ammo de-linked and thrown in for good measure.
Bitter Muppet
12-21-2007, 09:42 PM
I have used / carried the Mini-14 during the course of my employment for over 20 years and it eats everything stuffed into it to this point. Although not very accurate. I'm not of fond of the weapon but it feeds the 556 military 55 grn, blitz 52 grn, military green tip, 64 grn, 55 grn and everything else they have issued us during this period. This includes SAW ammo de-linked and thrown in for good measure.
Glad to hear that. Honestly I know everyone complains about the Mini 14's accuracy (or lack there of) but I had some bowling pins dancing at 75 yards and that was a high-tuck with a laser. I know that's not an impressive distance but I doubt I'll ever have an occasion to go much further out.
Hollis
12-21-2007, 09:58 PM
Glad to hear that. Honestly I know everyone complains about the Mini 14's accuracy (or lack there of) but I had some bowling pins dancing at 75 yards and that was a high-tuck with a laser. I know that's not an impressive distance but I doubt I'll ever have an occasion to go much further out.
A little secret on accuracy, it is 99.99% the shooter.
If you want accuracy, AI has some nice toys.
Bitter Muppet
12-21-2007, 10:03 PM
A little secret on accuracy, it is 99.99% the shooter.
If you want accuracy, AI has some nice toys.
AI? Got a link?
Hollis
12-21-2007, 10:16 PM
AI? Got a link?
http://www.tacproshootingcenter.com/AccuracyInternational.html
StukaJr
12-21-2007, 10:26 PM
5.56 runs a lot hotter so the only problem will be faster wear and tear on your Mini. I would certainly replace gas port bushing for the tightest one they make and install a Wolff Xtra power recoil spring.
John Baker of Great West Gunsmithing does a great job on Mini's keeping factory parts.
http://www.greatwestgunsmithing.com/mini14.htm
Accuracy Systems will make you a Mini-14 at the price of M1A
http://www.accuracysystemsinc.com/index.php
Perfect Union forum has a bunch of do-it yourself tricks that will get your Mini shooting sub-MOA groups as well...
Mini's are fun!
BillySing
12-21-2007, 10:38 PM
Look at the primer on a spent case, look for perforation, flattening, or dimpling.
Or a dark ring around the primer / primer pocket.
and if your really observant, look for an awkward extraction / ejection cycle. If there's an excess in pressure, you'll find there's a difference in the extraction and ejection cycle.
Or perhaps that's just my M1a. I've noticed some hot loads coming from south african surplus, and I've noticed that the case sticks a bit in the chamber, causing stress on the extractor, and resulting in a awry ejection.
gafkiwi
12-21-2007, 11:55 PM
I've noticed a severe difference between some 5.56 ss109 and some fedral .223 I put through my Vepr. The 109 was alot flatter with a little more kick. The biggest thing I noticed was how far the rifle would spit the brass, a minimum of 10m each time where as the fedral would go about 3m.
T3ngu
12-22-2007, 01:21 AM
Or a dark ring around the primer / primer pocket.
and if your really observant, look for an awkward extraction / ejection cycle. If there's an excess in pressure, you'll find there's a difference in the extraction and ejection cycle.
Or perhaps that's just my M1a. I've noticed some hot loads coming from south african surplus, and I've noticed that the case sticks a bit in the chamber, causing stress on the extractor, and resulting in a awry ejection.
You must be special to still have a M1a.
Slightly off topic
You would be the one to answer this billy. Will my Ruger M77 Mk2 throw 60-65gr ok? Or should i stick with 55gr. I think it has 1 in 12 twist, but i need 1 in 9 to better stabilize the bullet, is this correct?
gaijinsamurai
12-22-2007, 01:39 AM
I owned a Mini-14 for about three years, and fired a lot of 5.56 through it. It wasn't as accurate as an AR-15, but groups were somewhat respectable.
Irish_11
12-22-2007, 01:52 AM
Ive got one (and an AR) and I feed my mini 5.56. It handles it just fine. Built as a gun that prison guards and police were intended to use it should handle the slightly hotter 5.56 round.
Its not the most accurate gun out there, but it holds its own in reliability and functioning in every condition. Its a stout rifle and should get respect for being what it is. It was designed for sub 150 yard shots, and being able to function in dirty conditions and it does just that.
x2 on the perfect union forum, lots of good mini info, links and owners on there
BillySing
12-22-2007, 02:28 AM
You must be special to still have a M1a.
You would be the one to answer this billy. Will my Ruger M77 Mk2 throw 60-65gr ok? Or should i stick with 55gr. I think it has 1 in 12 twist, but i need 1 in 9 to better stabilize the bullet, is this correct?
Category D license Old Mate! ;-) :-P
Errr...........Is your Ruger chambered in .223 or .22-250? Because alot of long range shooter's like to combine heavy .22 bullets with the .22-250's larger case capacity for greater long range potential.
And how far to plan to shoot? Are you havin' a crack at F class or something techy like that?
T3ngu
12-22-2007, 04:10 AM
Category D license Old Mate! ;-) :-P
Errr...........Is your Ruger chambered in .223 or .22-250? Because alot of long range shooter's like to combine heavy .22 bullets with the .22-250's larger case capacity for greater long range potential.
And how far to plan to shoot? Are you havin' a crack at F class or something techy like that?
Im classified as a primary producer (family farm), amazing what I can get, but i doubt i can get a D class (used to have a C). I would love a F class or any other as a matter of fact. When I come to Tasmania next (we do work consulting work for a company thats always in the news down there) im going to stalk you.
I have a 223 and shoot 100-200m using a spotlight. Dont really need bigger pill, but hey, if i can shoot a 60+gr over 100m i probably will. I have a parker hale .303 British for longer or bigger stuff.
The ADI handloaders manual shows loads up in the 60gr mark and Madco in Toowoomba say I could shoot the 60gr stuff over shorter distances. .22-250 would be good but probably overpowered for what i typically shoot.
Cheers
A little secret on accuracy, it is 99.99% the shooter.
If you want accuracy, AI has some nice toys.
I can't help but comment, AI is very expensive for what you get. HS Precision from the USA produce the HTR models that are cheaper by half (as of 3 yrs ago when I got mine) and will perform at least as well as the well promoted AI series.
Hollis
12-22-2007, 01:18 PM
I can't help but comment, AI is very expensive for what you get. HS Precision from the USA produce the HTR models that are cheaper by half (as of 3 yrs ago when I got mine) and will perform at least as well as the well promoted AI series.
I have a Ruger M77 in .308, Bull barrel out of teh box shoots clover leafs with hand loads. I have maybe $700 in it. I don't think I will buy a AI soon. There are other choices before I would ever go that route. Lot depends on what a person wants, no firearm does it all.
Then again, I may win the lottery soon. AI here I come.
"A little secret on accuracy, it is 99.99% the shooter."
HOLLIS; Agreed, you are absolutely correct! However.......
We possess over 17 thousand of these weapons throughout our agency and qualify no less than 8 thousand officers with it every three months. Statewide we employ and qualify 28 thousand sworn personnel with this system. The weapons we have in inventory have multiple configurations of Barrel twist rates depending on when we took possession of them from the factory. Ruger produced these in many different twist rates thereby effecting accuracy but once again. Then consider the fact that we have changed ammo 3 times in the last five months and re-zeroed weapons each time. By the way were talking millions of rounds of ammo of different types. Combine all this hundreds of armory staff and range-masters with minimum training, knowledge and proficiency. An individual user with small lots of ammo, shooting only occasionally with tightly controlled regular cleaning can assume certain things.
Approx. three months ago we began replacing our Mini-14s with a newer version that is much more accurate. It is a "Ranch Rifle" type with improved sights and a composite stock. We have continually purchased and replaced worn systems for over 30 years to date. Our current standard zero & accuracy requirement out of the box for this weapon from the factory is 4 minutes of angle (2 inch group at 50 yards). The newer rifle is holding 2 1/2 - 3 MOA from the factory. The older systems were on average holding 3 3/4. These weapons are locked down in a bench vise system and the trigger is pressed by a human standing to the side of the weapon for testing when we receive them Ruger. No matter how you slice it these are not accurate weapons. I have two personal Mini-14 rifles. I have modified both of them and had much work done to accurize them for action three gun matches. The best I can get out of these rifles after $600.00 in modifications 2 1/2 MOA (Williams peep sights, bedding and trigger replacement as well a couple of other things). Two and a half MOA is not an accurate weapon in my opinion or anything to write home about.
For shooting people at close range generally, with minmum trained personnel they work fine and acheive the objective. The cost, the mission and the resutls all interlink well. They are pretty dependable and eat just about any ammo you give it.
BTW , I own an AI and have a Horus vision mounted on it. The cost of this system was 4X of my Remington PS700 with a tasco SS on it. The AI is not even 1 1/2X more accurate. I don't think the cost was worth the gain at this point. But the AI rifle has a huge RC factor and turns heads at the range.
Hollis
12-22-2007, 04:14 PM
2 1/2 MOA does not sound good, if it is a 1000M shooter.
But at 33 Yards, the MOA is 1/3 of that.
At 100 yard what is the Kill area of a person, is it much more than 2 1/2 inches or less.
Now another thought, I have a .5 MOA rifle, a tech weenie will say that is a 5 inch group at 1000M if there where no other factor involved, Yes.
Now introduce, wind, temperature, shooter, caliber ect, a 100M it may be .5MOA but at 1000M it is all over the place.
It is relative to need. No one gun does it all, no one caliber does it all, A room cleaner is not a 1500M sniper rifle.
A good shooter, should know the limits of a firearm and be able to use the features of that firearm to their advantage. Other words, a good shooter can make it happen, if the firearm can do it.
Regardless; I wouldn't consider 3 3/4 or 2 1/2 MOA off a bench good at any distance. Specifically when you are paying the price of $600.00 per copy. With this MOA now build in the human factor you have some real accuracy problems impacting on the threat. Generally and thankfully most or our agency shootings occur at 60m or less, with no more than two rounds fired.
"I have a Ruger M77 in .308, Bull barrel out of teh box shoots clover leafs with hand loads. I have maybe $700 in it. I don't think I will buy a AI soon. There are other choices before I would ever go that route. Lot depends on what a person wants, no firearm does it all."
The enviromental factors at the distances in my example above have little to no impact...the minimum trained human is the weak link. Then apply stress, poor marksmanship and poor interensic weapon accuracy and you now have problems. Conversly in your example; an expert marksman that understands the enviromental errors, how to adjust for them, knowledge of his applied ballistics and a .5 MOA rifle at 1000m increases the odds of getting on the threat within 2 rounds greatly. The rest is experence, training and more than anything else the "SWAG" factor.
The cost, the mission and the results all inter-link well. They are pretty dependable and eat just about any ammo you give it. The world is a compromise in motion. When you talk in minimums and some else deciding your weapon the choices are few.
Hollis
12-22-2007, 05:36 PM
I think we are talking about the two things needed to make a 1000M shot,
1) the trained shooter
2) the rifle that is made to do the job.
Even the best made rifle is a club in the hands of a untrained person.
As for CQC, different issue. You still need the trained shooter and the rifle that is made to do that job.
Agreed, the combination of the two makes the shot but remiss of either one you will reduce the odds of the shot as well.
~center~
12-23-2007, 10:07 AM
Wow, all these posts and nobody has actually answered the question. I suppose I'll answer it for you then.
Generally, you should never use NATO ammo (that is ammo measured in millimeters) in a firearm labeled for SAMMI/standard inch ammo (caliber). This is due to the slight difference in actual size of the ammunition.
NATO or military ammo is manufactured using the metric system whereas standard "sporting" ammo is manufactured using standard inch/SAMMI specs.
The metric system does not exactly convert into standard inch or vice versa. The result, is a minute size difference in the conversion.
The problem with using military ammo in a non-military caliber firearm is two-fold:
1) Military/NATO ammo is generally "hotter" than regular civilian ammo resulting in higher velocity and higher chamber pressure.
2) Military/NATO ammo is actually slightly larger in diameter, due to the use of the metric system for measurment of the round and casing.
The combination of both these factors will result in a higher chamber pressure in the firearm. This can be a problem in firearms made specifically for the standard inch caliber ammunition. Some firearms (like the Ruger Mini-14) handle both rounds well, however other firearms may have trouble extracting (which is the most likely occurance), trouble cycling, or occasionally, having a catastrophic failure. It's the catrostrophic failure that is the concern to firearms manufacturers (as well it should be for the shooter). If a manufacturer says it's ok to shoot 5.56mm ammo out of their .223 cal gun, it's a huge liability factor.
The basic rule is this and it should be used by all; You can shoot both kinds of ammo out of a firearm labled to shoot NATO/millimeter ammo but not the other way around. Basically, if you buy an AR-15 type rifle and the barrel is labled "5.56mm" then you can shoot BOTH 5.56mm and .223 cal ammo through it. If your barrel is labeled ".223 cal" then stay away from military/NATO ammo.
Some guns handle the difference very well, others will malfunction or even self destruct. In the end, it's your choice and if you want to take the chance then have at it. It will effect me little, if not at all, if you f#ck up your firearm simply because your too cheap to buy the propper ammunition for your firearm.
Hope that answers your question.
Bitter Muppet
12-23-2007, 12:31 PM
Wow, all these posts and nobody has actually answered the question. I suppose I'll answer it for you then.
Generally, you should never use NATO ammo (that is ammo measured in millimeters) in a firearm labeled for SAMMI/standard inch ammo (caliber). This is due to the slight difference in actual size of the ammunition.
NATO or military ammo is manufactured using the metric system whereas standard "sporting" ammo is manufactured using standard inch/SAMMI specs.
The metric system does not exactly convert into standard inch or vice versa. The result, is a minute size difference in the conversion.
The problem with using military ammo in a non-military caliber firearm is two-fold:
1) Military/NATO ammo is generally "hotter" than regular civilian ammo resulting in higher velocity and higher chamber pressure.
2) Military/NATO ammo is actually slightly larger in diameter, due to the use of the metric system for measurment of the round and casing.
The combination of both these factors will result in a higher chamber pressure in the firearm. This can be a problem in firearms made specifically for the standard inch caliber ammunition. Some firearms (like the Ruger Mini-14) handle both rounds well, however other firearms may have trouble extracting (which is the most likely occurance), trouble cycling, or occasionally, having a catastrophic failure. It's the catrostrophic failure that is the concern to firearms manufacturers (as well it should be for the shooter). If a manufacturer says it's ok to shoot 5.56mm ammo out of their .223 cal gun, it's a huge liability factor.
The basic rule is this and it should be used by all; You can shoot both kinds of ammo out of a firearm labled to shoot NATO/millimeter ammo but not the other way around. Basically, if you buy an AR-15 type rifle and the barrel is labled "5.56mm" then you can shoot BOTH 5.56mm and .223 cal ammo through it. If your barrel is labeled ".223 cal" then stay away from military/NATO ammo.
Some guns handle the difference very well, others will malfunction or even self destruct. In the end, it's your choice and if you want to take the chance then have at it. It will effect me little, if not at all, if you f#ck up your firearm simply because your too cheap to buy the propper ammunition for your firearm.
Hope that answers your question.
That's what I was trying to understand. The rifle clearly says ".223" on the back. I've only ever fed it 5.56 with no issues (as in every round cycles perfectly, reasonable recoil, accurate).
The whole reply was good and appreciate but I didn't understand your implying that I'm too cheap for the proper ammo in an almost confrontational way. I thought my opening statement would have been clear enough for the general public that I simply needed some guidence and knowledge on this one. I wouldn't come up here for financial advice, nor whould I trust yours.
I again do thank you for your advice and explination of the difference in the ammo types.
T3ngu
12-23-2007, 06:11 PM
That's what I was trying to understand. The rifle clearly says ".223" on the back. I've only ever fed it 5.56 with no issues (as in every round cycles perfectly, reasonable recoil, accurate).
The whole reply was good and appreciate but I didn't understand your implying that I'm too cheap for the proper ammo in an almost confrontational way. I thought my opening statement would have been clear enough for the general public that I simply needed some guidence and knowledge on this one. I wouldn't come up here for financial advice, nor whould I trust yours.
I again do thank you for your advice and explanation of the difference in the ammo types.
I suppose I always viewed .223 and .223 Remington as one, as 5.56 nato (i thought) was .223 remington. What all of this boils down to is that a .223 Remington fires a .224 (5.68mm) diameter pill anyway. 5.56 it certainly is not thus the comment re .223 vs .223 remington is valid.
Sorry for not adding much with this post.
jtv3062
12-23-2007, 09:55 PM
if it's the same as the 7.62 and .308 win. 7.62 ok in the .308, not .308 in a 7.62 heres some good reading for you http://www.thegunzone.com/556v223.html.
I have a friend who shoots nothing but Wolf ammo in his with no problems
~center~
12-24-2007, 05:16 AM
The whole reply was good and appreciate but I didn't understand your implying that I'm too cheap for the proper ammo in an almost confrontational way. I thought my opening statement would have been clear enough for the general public that I simply needed some guidence and knowledge on this one. I wouldn't come up here for financial advice, nor whould I trust yours.
I again do thank you for your advice and explination of the difference in the ammo types.
That comment wasn't meant for you, rather, it was simply a "general" statement for all. There are some out there who know exactly what kind of ammo their guns will handle and for them, using different ammo than what the manufacturer suggests is just fine. Again, sorry if you took my statement as meant for you, as it was not.
Have fun out there p-)
Grey Wolf
12-24-2007, 01:05 PM
According to Ruger the Mini-14 was mad to handle the 5.56mm round as well as the .223.
Thousands of these were bought during the Regan Years and sent to Central and South America p-)
BiggBodyBrougham
01-05-2008, 07:48 PM
To be honest I never really knew there was a difference between the .223 and 5.56x45 NATO. But from what I have read it seems like you loose accuracy when shooting a .223 out of a chambered 5.56mm. But it's not recommended for safety reasons the other way around. But from what I have seen from other reply's on this topic ppl do it all the time no problem....
BillySing
01-05-2008, 08:06 PM
You must be special to still have a M1a.
Slightly off topic
You would be the one to answer this billy. Will my Ruger M77 Mk2 throw 60-65gr ok? Or should i stick with 55gr. I think it has 1 in 12 twist, but i need 1 in 9 to better stabilize the bullet, is this correct?
You'll be able to stabilise a maximum weight of 65 grains from a 1 in 12 twist.
A 1:14" will only stabilize a 55 grain,
A 1:9'" will spin a max of 73 grain,
A 1:8" will stabilize an 80 grainer,
and a 1:7" / 1:6.5" will spin a the serious 90 grain VLD's.
A 1:12" twist is the multi purpose twist (the happy medium) , but it won't spin a 62 grain m855 military loading because of it's longer jacket.
onefast93z28
01-05-2008, 08:52 PM
When all else fails, read the manual:
AMMUNITION
The RUGER® MINI-14® RANCH RIFLES are chambered for the .223
Remington (5.56mm) cartridge. The Mini-14 Ranch Rifle is designed to use either
standardized U.S. military, or factory loaded sporting .223 (5.56mm) cartridges
manufactured in accordance with U.S. industry practice. See “Ammunition
Notice” & “Warning - Ammunition,” below.
-Page 11 of the 580 series Ruger Mini 14 manual
Bitter Muppet
01-05-2008, 09:10 PM
When all else fails, read the manual:
AMMUNITION
The RUGER® MINI-14® RANCH RIFLES are chambered for the .223
Remington (5.56mm) cartridge. The Mini-14 Ranch Rifle is designed to use either
standardized U.S. military, or factory loaded sporting .223 (5.56mm) cartridges
manufactured in accordance with U.S. industry practice. See “Ammunition
Notice” & “Warning - Ammunition,” below.
-Page 11 of the 580 series Ruger Mini 14 manual
Ok....that was pretty damn obvious! LOL. Could have saved the entire thread if I had actually thought of this in the beginning.
Page 3 of my 195 Series manual:
"Mini-14 Ranch Rifles are chambered for either the 223 Remington (5.56mm military) cartridge, or the 222 Remington cartridge. The caliber of each rifle is marked on the rear of the receiver. The Ranch Rifle chambered for the 223 Rem. is designed to use either standardized U.S. military, or factory loaded sporting 222 (5.56mm) cartridges manufactured in accordance with U.S. industry practice. The Ranch Rifle chambered for the 222 Rem......."
So I guess I'm good to go with the tons of 5.56mm I have stored away.
Thanks for the suggestion!
steve2071
01-12-2008, 07:25 AM
Just to make sure, like the others have said, .223 and 5.56 are not identical and anything labeled .223 should not be fed 5.56 (vice versa is okay though). This particular weapon, however, will handle pretty much anything like a champ. I've had a Mini-14 for nearly 5 years and have fed it everything from 5.56 surplus to remanufactured stuff, to junk Wolf. Eats it up without a burp!
I hate being a fan of Ruger as Ruger was not a fan of the 2nd Amendment, but I cannot dislike this rifle! It's been so good to me.
Douros81
01-15-2008, 12:00 AM
From Winchester Ammo
There are a lot of questions about these two cartridges. Many people think they are identical - merely different designations for commercial and military. The truth is that, although somewhat similar, they are not the same and you should know the differences before buying either cartridge.
The cartridge casings for both calibers have basically the same length and exterior dimensions.
The 5.56 round, loaded to Military Specification, typically has higher velocity and chamber pressure than the .223 Rem.
The 5.56 cartridge case may have thicker walls, and a thicker head, for extra strength. This better contains the higher chamber pressure. However, a thicker case reduces powder capacity, which is of concern to the reloader.
The 5.56mm and .223 Rem chambers are nearly identical. The difference is in the "Leade". Leade is defined as the portion of the barrel directly in front of the chamber where the rifling has been conically removed to allow room for the seated bullet. It is also more commonly known as the throat. Leade in a .223 Rem chamber is usually .085". In a 5.56mm chamber the leade is typically .162", or almost twice as much as in the 223 Rem chamber.
You can fire .223 Rem cartridges in 5.56mm chambers with this longer leade, but you will generally have a slight loss in accuracy and velocity over firing the .223 round in the chamber with the shorter leade it was designed for.
Problems may occur when firing the higher-pressure 5.56mm cartridge in a .223 chamber with its much shorter leade. It is generally known that shortening the leade can dramatically increase chamber pressure. In some cases, this higher pressure could result in primer pocket gas leaks, blown cartridge case heads and gun functioning issues.
The 5.56mm military cartridge fired in a .223 Rem chamber is considered by SAAMI (Small Arm and Ammunition Manufacturers Institute) to be an unsafe ammunition combination.
Before buying either of these two types of ammunition, always check your gun to find what caliber it is chambered for, then buy the appropriate ammunition. Most 5.56mm rounds made have full metal jacket bullets. Performance bullets - soft points, hollow points, Ballistic Silvertips, etc. - are loaded in .223 Rem cartridges. Firing a .223 Rem cartridge in a 5.56mm-chambered gun is safe and merely gives you slightly reduced velocity and accuracy. However we do not recommend, nor does SAAMI recommend, firing a 5.56mm cartridge in a gun chambered for the .223 Rem as the shorter leade can cause pressure-related problems.
Winchester Law Enforcement Ammunition East Alton Illinois
http://www.winchester.com/lawenforcement/news/newsview.aspx?storyid=11
According to Ruger the Mini-14 was mad to handle the 5.56mm round as well as the .223.
Thousands of these were bought during the Regan Years and sent to Central and South America p-)
Yep the good old days. I miss Regan.
When I owned my Mini-14 I shot Federal 5.56 XM193 USGI Ammo out of it a lot and never had a problem. You could tell that it was a hotter round then WWB .223 from Wal-Mart. The case flew a lot more and it got hot real fast. Anything that shoots .223 can take 5.56. :)
I hate being a fan of Ruger as Ruger was not a fan of the 2nd Amendment, but I cannot dislike this rifle! It's been so good to me
I sold my Mini-14 because of this fact. 10rds mags my ass. I will never buy a Ruger product again.
StukaJr
01-15-2008, 01:06 PM
Another trick with Mini-14's is that the bore twist varies with three decades of manufacture with change: 1 in 10", 1 in 7" and 1 in 9" are the known twists...
Just because Mini-14 will chamber something and go bang, doesn't mean it will do so well - older Mini's have been known to keyhole with heavier grain bullets and when the shooter switched to commercial 55gr, they'd stay in the black...
5.56 runs a lot hotter and faster than commercial .223's - the ammo may be cheaper for practice purposes but it will shorten the lifespan of the firearm... My 2 cents, is the money you save on cheaper surplus will come back and bite you in the arse when shipping the rifle back to Ruger.
Hollis
01-15-2008, 02:11 PM
I sold my Mini-14 because of this fact. 10rds mags my ass. I will never buy a Ruger product again.
I wonder if you ever bother to check, there are even 40 rd mags for the mini-14
http://www.cdnninvestments.com/mi240stmanew.html
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01-16-2008, 10:17 AM
^^^ Crap, they even make 100 round Beta Mags for the Mini-14.
https://019f4f7.netsolstores.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=33
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