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DPMSAR15
05-14-2011, 06:27 PM
Hello Gentlemen,
After google searching for info I thought I would put a post on here about this because I usually get some good feedback from the shooters on MPNet. I just purchased a DPMS Levang linear compensator for my AR and had some questions about the installation. I removed my A2 flash hider and now have the exposed threaded tip of the barrel ready for the Levang. My question is, what should I use to ensure a solid/tight fit and make sure it doesn't work its way loose? I heard some people on other forums suggest Locktite but something about that makes me very uneasy. I heard other people suggest using a crush washer which sounds good to me. Anyone have any advice or experience on installing the Levang or any other flash hider/break/compensator for that matter? Thanks for the advice in advance.

-[Crosshair]-
05-14-2011, 09:06 PM
Don't ever use Loctite for a compensator. Use a crush washer and torque it a bit, it should be fine. You'll be able to align it properly, too. Most compensators use them.

Hollis
05-14-2011, 09:23 PM
-;5645909']don't ever use loctite for a compensator. Use a crush washer and torque it a bit, it should be fine. You'll be able to align it properly, too. Most compensators use them.


2x..............................

Mein Teil
05-14-2011, 09:27 PM
Lock- tite will most likely sieze before you even get it screwed down anyway and if you want to take it off you'll need a torch. The cruch washer is the only way to go

DPMSAR15
05-15-2011, 12:34 AM
Thanks guys! Yea the Locktite seemed like a pretty ridiculous idea so ill go pick up some crush washers and finish the job.

James
05-15-2011, 01:19 AM
Whoever suggests loc tite for this sort of thing is an idiot.

DPMSAR15
05-15-2011, 01:31 AM
Thanks guys.

Here is the link to one of the forums advocating Locktite. I did a double take at the thought of putting that stuff on my rifle. Thanks for the info and reassurance.

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1140206632

JJ_BPK
05-15-2011, 05:10 PM
Unless there is something new,, locktite has a melt/burn temp around 450 deg. In other words,, it will release after one mag or less. It is not a hi-temp adhesive.

Don't use solder either because it also has a low(compared to gun powder) melt point.

If the crush washer is not your style, a good gun-smith can pin and/or braze the comp on. Brazing for AFT purposes is around 1300 deg and will not come lose under fire.

Post a pic when complete..

DPMSAR15
05-16-2011, 10:10 PM
Hey guys,
Well I got my hands on a crush washer and put that on before screwing the Levang onto the threaded end of the barrel. First I hand tightened it as far as it would go and then used a micro fiber towel to get a better grip and tighten it a little more. I then used a modified method I had read about online to tighten it down the rest of the way. I took two allen wrenches just slightly smaller than the diameter of the gas port holes on the Levang and taped two layers of paper towel around each. I then inserted each into one of the Levang’s gas port holes opposing each other. The paper towel pieces formed a nice barrier so that I did not have any metal on metal contact between the allen wrenches and the Levang. Finally I took a crescent wrench and tightened it down on the two allen wrenches and slowly built up pressure until I had finally tightened down the Levang the rest of the way. I got about a quarter turn with the allen wrenches and crescent wrench and stopped when I felt it was locked down tight and applying anymore pressure would only result in something breaking.
I then headed down to the local range in Livermore to test it out. While I was behind the rifle, my girlfriend who is also an avid shooter stood to my right to judge the sound from that angle. After I went through a couple magazines my girlfriend took her turn on the rifle so I could observe the muzzle blast from the right side.
From the first round fired, I noticed a significant difference in the way the rifle (5.56 DPMS with a 16in barrel) operated. First off I noticed the difference in the way that the rifle sounded. Previously there had been a loud crisp crack sound when each round was fired but with the Levang mounted, the noise was a lot quieter and seemed like a deeper/muted “boom” sound that was much easier on the ears. You shooters will know the sounds I am talking about. It was by no means silenced/suppressed but once again noticeably improved over my previous A2 muzzle.
It was also clearly visible that the Levang did a great job of throwing the gasses and flash forward and out of my face and eyesight. I have a Eotech 516/A65 and it was much easier to shoot with either one eye or both eyes open because my eyes did not feel the instinctive need to shut with each shot. From the right side I could clearly see the Levang throwing the gas blast out forward in a nice tight cone.
Next there was a noticeable decrease in recoil and muzzle climb. The rifle seamed to stay on target much easier and though 5.56 has never been a hard hitting round as far as recoil, I felt much less pressure on my shoulder. There was also no noticeable difference in weight with the Levang hanging on the front of my barrel.
Everything seemed to be going fine but I wanted to really work the rifle hard which is not possible at our civilian range because it prohibits rapid fire. I called a friend who has some property where we can shoot and took a drive out his way. I half buried a one gallon water jug on a dirt mound and then fired a full magazine at it as fast as I could pull the trigger at a range of about 25 yards. Even when “rapid firing” on semi auto, the rifle did not climb anywhere near as much as before. I even noticed that my compensation for my previous A2 muzzle by pulling the barrel back down was unnecessary with the Levang and this compensation caused me to drop my initial shots low. I went through a another magazine on “rapid fire” semi auto without compensating anywhere near as much and was burning a nice tight hole through the center of the water jug. When I got home I broke down my AR and repeated the tightening process with the allen wrenches, paper towels, and crescent wrench to see if the shooting had loosened the Levang at all. I was happy to see that it was just as firmly secured as it had been when I first tightened it down.
Another thing I observed was that the guy in the shooting stall next to me had a Noveske KX3 can on his AR. I observed that they both seemed to do an equally great job directing muzzle blast and gasses away from the shooter. I did not shoot his AR so I can’t comment on anything else regarding the Noveske KX3’s performance.
I have to say that I am more than happy with the performance of the Levang linear compensator. I had previously been looking to buy a Noveske KX3 but after reading some good reviews on the Levang and thinking about the welfare of my bank account I decided to give it a shot. I would recommend the Levang to anyone who wants to improve their AR shooting experience but does not want to cough up the bucks for a KAC Triple Tap, Noveske, KX3, etc.

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DPMSAR15
05-16-2011, 10:17 PM
BTW the ammo used was 5.56 mm 55gr FMJ Lake City XM193 that I bought bulk a little while back. I bought this and some cheaper bulk American Eagle .223 Rem and this rifle seems to like them both. Not a single misfire/feeding issue/jam since I have purchased it.

DPMSAR15
05-16-2011, 10:25 PM
Oh and when talking to the guy next to me he said he had indeed used locktite on his Noveske KX3. I still think the washer was the best way to go though.

-[Crosshair]-
05-16-2011, 11:01 PM
So does DoD, Colt, Bushmaster, DPMS, HK, LMT, LWRC, DD, etc., etc...

Lol yeah.

Contrary to what a lot of people think, Loctite does NOT go well on everything that has threads.