gun barrel rust

[nagant_m44]

how do i remove rust from the inside of the barrel?

[Roy Batty]

Run a cleaning swab soaked in CLP through the barrel and let it sit for a few hours. Then run a bore brush through it a few times and then follow with clean, fresh swabs until the swabs stop coming through dirty. If you can't find CLP use WD-40. The CLP should penetrate the rust to break it free.

[Seraphim]

They do have specific rust remover applications...just goto your local gun shop and they will have them. When you store your firearm run a soaked patch of CLP down the bore. Make sure you run a dry patch before you shoot them though.

[nagant_m44]

yea i tried the Bore Scrubber and WD-40 already. Its been 3 days, and the patches are still coming out pitch black. SHould i just take it to a gunsmith so he can clean it out?

[Mark Sman]

The absolute best way. If you electrocute yourself its your own damn fault.

http://home.sprynet.com/~frfrog2/homemade.htm#Removal

[Mark Sman]

Patches come out black? That doesn't sound like rust.

It sounds like cosmoline or grease.

Pour boiling water down the barrel a few times (use a funnel), then clean it with a patch soaked in boiling water . Then a brush and then a patch soaked in WD-40. (Water Displacement 40)

Now clean the barrel normally.

Gumout carburetor cleaner also works.

Rust should come out, well, rust colored.

[nagant_m44]

Patches come out black? That doesn't sound like rust.

It sounds like cosmoline or grease.

Pour boiling water down the barrel a few times (use a funnel), then clean it with a patch soaked in boiling water . Then a brush and then a patch soaked in WD-40. (Water Displacement 40)

Now clean the barrel normally.

Gumout carburetor cleaner also works.

Rust should come out, well, rust colored.

what about the blue **** that comes out on the patches sometimes?

[agcsy]

What kind of gun is it and were you shooting corrosive ammo in it? What does the barrel look like when you shine a flashlight down it and look through it?

[nagant_m44]

What kind of gun is it and were you shooting corrosive ammo in it? What does the barrel look like when you shine a flashlight down it and look through it?

its a yugo mauser m48A and i was firing corrosive ammo with it. When i shine the flashlight thru it, i see stuff inbetween the rifling. I did use ammonia to neutralize the corrosive salts right after i shot. I touched the area between the rifling with a cotton swab and it came out black. Ive been cleaning it for days and its all still there

[Mark Sman]

what about the blue **** that comes out on the patches sometimes?

Copper residue from bullet jackets. It will look blue or blue-green.

http://home.sprynet.com/~frfrog/cleaners.htm

Again, don't electrocute yourself.
http://home.sprynet.com/~frfrog2/copclean.pdf

The retail version.
http://www.gunaccessories.com/Outers/FoulOut.asp

Im starting towonder if the black gunk you refer to isn't built up lead.

[nagant_m44]

what about the blue **** that comes out on the patches sometimes?

Copper residue from bullet jackets. It will look blue or blue-green.

http://home.sprynet.com/~frfrog/cleaners.htm

Again, don't electrocute yourself.
http://home.sprynet.com/~frfrog2/copclean.pdf

The retail version.
http://www.gunaccessories.com/Outers/FoulOut.asp

Im starting towonder if the black gunk you refer to isn't built up lead.

how would lead get in there? Im shooting FMJ rounds.

[Mark Sman]

how would lead get in there? Im shooting FMJ rounds.


Unless they cranked up M-48A production again, the rifle is 50 years old. Bound to have been somebody "bust a cap!" out of it before.

Also, most FMJ rounds still leave lead deposits. Especially cheap milsurp.

I would try the boiling water trick first, since its cheapest. See if you haven't got some stuck cosmo/grease in there. Also, boiling water is absolutely goodbye to any leftover corrosive residue.

Next I might try Outers foaming bore cleaner. What with me being lazy and all.
http://www.gamaliel.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=5329&cat=125&page=1

If that doesn't work, get midevil and try some of the other cleaning methods.

Most gunsmiths are hacks of the first order. Sometimes they are full fledged Astro-Troopers in charge of a team of Space Cadets. And sometimes they are good, and will charge you $20 to pour boiling water down your barrel.

[Mark Sman]

http://gunboards.com/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=6

http://p102.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm9

Might have to register for the second one.

I have a 24/47 that is fun and cheap to shoot. Shoot corrosive Hungarian/Yugo/Whatever milsurp through it. Bore shines like a mirror.

[Seraphim]

You can get lead buildup from the exposed lead at the bttom of the fmj.

[PrincessRAR]

Patches come out black? That doesn't sound like rust.

It sounds like cosmoline or grease.

Pour boiling water down the barrel a few times (use a funnel), then clean it with a patch soaked in boiling water . Then a brush and then a patch soaked in WD-40. (Water Displacement 40)

Now clean the barrel normally.

Gumout carburetor cleaner also works.

Rust should come out, well, rust colored.

what about the blue **** that comes out on the patches sometimes?

that is the blueing effect left by carbon that hasnt been cleaned.

Best way to remove rust or carbon buildup is to drech teh **** out of it with cleaning oil - and then with a bore brush or a wire brush scrub the **** out of the ****.

reapply oil then wipe with a cloth then lightly oil the weapon. You weapon should alawys be lightly oiled and cleaned you manky **** ;)

anyway best of luck and giddyup

[nagant_m44]

how would lead get in there? Im shooting FMJ rounds.


Unless they cranked up M-48A production again, the rifle is 50 years old. Bound to have been somebody "bust a cap!" out of it before.

Also, most FMJ rounds still leave lead deposits. Especially cheap milsurp.

I would try the boiling water trick first, since its cheapest. See if you haven't got some stuck cosmo/grease in there. Also, boiling water is absolutely goodbye to any leftover corrosive residue.

Next I might try Outers foaming bore cleaner. What with me being lazy and all.
http://www.gamaliel.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=5329&cat=125&page=1

If that doesn't work, get midevil and try some of the other cleaning methods.

Most gunsmiths are hacks of the first order. Sometimes they are full fledged Astro-Troopers in charge of a team of Space Cadets. And sometimes they are good, and will charge you $20 to pour boiling water down your barrel.

ive applied the foaming **** over 15 times and its still dirty

[Mark Sman]

Try the boiling water trick, use a little grease cutting dish detergent mixed in.

Rinse the barrel a couple of times. Then WD-40 the water out and clean normally.

I know this sounds silly, but people have been using this method to clean guns for a long time. And its cheap.

[Mark Sman]

the blueing effect left by carbon that hasnt been cleaned.

Carbon comes out grey or black. Blue or blue-green residue is from copper.

[nagant_m44]

ok anyone have any experience with the electric cleaners?

[Mark Sman]

My buddy built the electric cleaner. I used it on an old Swede Mauser and removed all the rust. Every last tiny bit.

[nagant_m44]

My buddy built the electric cleaner. I used it on an old Swede Mauser and removed all the rust. Every last tiny bit.

they are very expensive though. If you buy it with all the o rings and chemicals it can cost 200$

[Mark Sman]

Have you tried boiling hot soapy water yet?

[nagant_m44]

Have you tried boiling hot soapy water yet?

not yet, im doing that tomorrow

[Mark Sman]

Make the last few pours through with just boiling water.

Then a little brush work.

Then the WD-40 and regular clean. See what you see after that.

[nagant_m44]

ok i did that. The bore looks alot brighter now, but when i look thru the muzzle, i still see the black **** between the rifling. :|

[Mark Sman]

50-year-old crusty cosmoline can be a notorious bitch to get out of a barrell.

But if you tried steamy soapy water and a brush, and you believe you got it all out, then these are the remaining things it can be.

Lead - lead can build up in a barrell. There are lead solvents and cloths designed to remove lead available in gun stores if you don't want to fool with a trickle charger/potentiometer/gator clips and chemicals. Mr. Brass Bore Brush can be our friend here. Safety note: scrub the lead out of the gun outdoors and away from kids, dogs and water supply.

Carbon/grime - You have described a considerable level of this black colored X material. Hard to believe there could be such a level of carbon to survive the assault you have laid out so far. It has to be pointed out that it is possible. You are not going to like this. The solution is to clean clean clean.

Ectoplasm - Harder to get rid of than hippies. Semi-directed energy weapon is your only hope.

My advice is either to go after it with the boiling hot soapy water and a bore brush again, or buy a bottle of lead removing solvent/cloth from a gun store and go after it with a combo of the brass brush and the lead cleaning product of your choice.

Good luck, you get an A for effort so far.

Any chance of a pic of what a dirty patch looks like?

[nagant_m44]

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/257/257970/pages/729996/patches.jpg

[Mark Sman]

Hard to tell, but it looks like residual gun oil.

I guess they don't come out clean no matter how many you put down huh?

[Mark Sman]

Cosmoline is kinda sticky to the touch wheras gunoil is very viscous.

Anything from a touch test?

[nagant_m44]

Cosmoline is kinda sticky to the touch wheras gunoil is very viscous.

Anything from a touch test?

all i felt was the patch. One of the patches in the pic has some green and orange stains on it too.

[sergey31]

If I were you I'd get a Remington bore cleaner (which is the best that I came across so far) then get a bronze brush wrap it slightly in 0000 steel wool and let bore cleaner to run trough the barrel for about 4-5 minutes then work it with that brush..... It works pretty good.

Fine grade steel wool takes out any rust residue if there is any.

[Seraphim]

If I were you I'd get a Remington bore cleaner (which is the best that I came across so far) then get a bronze brush wrap it slightly in 0000 steel wool and let bore cleaner to run trough the barrel for about 4-5 minutes then work it with that brush..... It works pretty good.

steel.......

[sergey31]

If I were you I'd get a Remington bore cleaner (which is the best that I came across so far) then get a bronze brush wrap it slightly in 0000 steel wool and let bore cleaner to run trough the barrel for about 4-5 minutes then work it with that brush..... It works pretty good.

steel.......


"0000" It won't wear out rifling, as a matter of fact excessive bronze brush will do more harm then little 0000 steel wool.

British used to carry metal like tube patch that they would use in rare cases where the rifle was thought to have rust in the barrel.

[California Joe]

Look up a product on the net called Balistol. It's highly recommended by muzzleloaders and competitive black powder shooters. And believe me if it can clean a barrel that's been fouled by real black powder it'll work on your problem. Good luck.

[nagant_m44]

Look up a product on the net called Balistol. It's highly recommended by muzzleloaders and competitive black powder shooters. And believe me if it can clean a barrel that's been fouled by real black powder it'll work on your problem. Good luck.

ok i just got some on ebay. now i dont want to fire that mauser again now that ive been cleaning it for the past few weeks...

[nagant_m44]

Look up a product on the net called Balistol. It's highly recommended by muzzleloaders and competitive black powder shooters. And believe me if it can clean a barrel that's been fouled by real black powder it'll work on your problem. Good luck.

ok i tried the ballistol. The **** is still in there, even though theres less of it now.

[Mark Sman]

Maybe give Mineral spirits or Paint thinner a try if you have it around.
Mineral Spirits are nastier than you think, try not to get any on yourself.

or Purple power degreaser. Mush less nasty.

I don't know what else to suggest. You definitely are earning your merit badge on this one.

Unfortunately the solution might just be more elbow grease.

Good luck.

[GeraldDuval]

i use a boresnake for all my cleaning. just put whatever solvent you want on the beginning of the snake and pull it through 2-3 times. I've never had any problems with it.

I usually fire corrosive russian ammo through my old AK clone SAR-1 up to 500 rounds between cleaning. a few swipes and some boiling water gets everything out...

[Seraphim]

i use a boresnake for all my cleaning. just put whatever solvent you want on the beginning of the snake and pull it through 2-3 times. I've never had any problems with it.

I usually fire corrosive russian ammo through my old AK clone SAR-1 up to 500 rounds between cleaning. a few swipes and some boiling water gets everything out...

I've never used a boresnake before...but how are you suppose to clean them after?

[California Joe]

Look up a product on the net called Balistol. It's highly recommended by muzzleloaders and competitive black powder shooters. And believe me if it can clean a barrel that's been fouled by real black powder it'll work on your problem. Good luck.

ok i tried the ballistol. The **** is still in there, even though theres less of it now.

Damn, I figured that stuff would cure what ails it.

[Seraphim]

Just to add a question...is blue only from copper...or copper and brass?

[Mark Sman]

Copper.

Brass leaves a, well, brass colored mark. Like on the deflector of an AR series weapon or the shell lifter of a pump action. Even oxidized brass is basically just darker. Unless its really gone.

The laquered case stuff can leave a different look. But none of that is in your barrell, or your problems are bigger than fouling.

[Seraphim]

Reason Im asking is Im using Barnes CR-10 and it says use until patches come out clean with no blue coloration. Well Im using a brass jag, and the cr-10 is eating the brass finish off my jag! :lol: So I wasnt sure if the blue was come from the jag. I still have some powder residue on the rifling near the chamber... :roll:

[Mark Sman]

Thats a new one on me, wouldn't rule it out.

Maybe try switching to a plastic .22 patch holder as a jag for an experiment?

[Oddbod]

Barnes will dissolve part of the copper component in brass, giving the green/blue copper salt colouration.
I would just carry on shooting it & give it a good clean followed by a wet CLP/Ballistol patch before storing & a dry patch before firing.
If the pre firing patch isn't coming out rust coloured, then you have no further corrosion problems.
The black between the lands is likely from 50+ years of less than perfect maintenance & by now virtually irremovable.

[Mark Sman]

50+ years of less than perfect maintenance

Its odd though in that most of theM-48s and 24-47s I've seen looked like they had either been stored since FTR, or received excellent mantenance.

I guess the 10% rule is universal though.