Reloading.

[Hollis]

I was wondering, is there enough interest to have a reloading thread on this forum?

As a wise man once said, "reloading is to shooting, as foreplay is to ***"

reloading equipment never has head aches
Don't mind you spending time with other reloading equipment.......

ECT

[California Joe]

I've reloaded before using a friends equipment. He had a nice set up in an old garage. Someday I'll have to set up my own in a corner of my garage. My wife is a Chem E so maybe I can get her to do all the math for me. p-)

I've also "run ball" from 50 pound lead ingots for my flinters. You can get a lot of .45 cal round balls from one of those.

[ABNINF]

I don't know who all on here reloads. I would bet SMGLee does. I'm like Joe, I have on occasion with a friend's equipment and plan to have my own spot one day.......

[dangerdan87]

I reload

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[Hollis]

I've also "run ball" from 50 pound lead ingots for my flinters. You can get a lot of .45 cal round balls from one of those.

No kidding, commercially available ball for front stuffers are expensive, especially it you get into 58 cal Minie. or 69 cal.

[Geezah]

I wouldn't mind trying to get into it in the future. I would probably only reload match grade .223, along the lines of 77gr, and only because that grain costs an arm and a leg, but for 55rg and 62gr I've been picking up the Guat and Radway Green surplus.
As far as pistol, I get the WWB for plinking, although, maybe for the 9mm AR.

[DeltaWhisky58]

I currently re-load .222Rem, .243Win & .308Win; I have also loaded for 32ACP, 9x19mm, ,38Spec, .357Mag, .44-40, 45ACP, .220 Swift, 6.5x54mm, 6.5x55mm, .270Win, 7x57mm & 7x64mm in the past.

I wouldn't claim to enjoy it - I don't. It is one of the most mind-numbingly repetitive tasks known to man, but if you want ammo with superb accuracy and bullet of choice tailored to your weapon, you ain't got no choice.

Having tried many combinations, I now use Lapua cases, CCi primers, Nosler bullets and a combination of Hercules, Hogdon and Vihtavuori powders. My reloading bench has a mixture of RCBS & Lyman kit with a few Lee and other accessories plus a custom made electrnic powder measure/trickler.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b212/HighlandSniper58/04-05-200616-18-23_0002.jpg

No whstles and bells super-soaker multiblaster for me - a good, solid well built bolt action with the best scope money can buy - in this case a custom-built rifle in 7x64mm based on a Musgrave M90 action, Ferlach barrel, AAA select Claro walnut, with a 3-12x42 Schmidt und Bender scope. It can shoot 1/4MOA all day, but I can't - however I can now and again when I'm trying hard and concentrating. ;-)

[California Joe]

I've also shot Hornady swaged balls through them and you're right, they are expensive by the box.

DW is right, it isn't a particularly enlightening exercise. Beautiful goddamned rifle by the way. The style is perfect. That's my idea of a hunting rifle.

[dangerdan87]

My .223 77gr SMKs that I reloaded with IMR 4895 will hold a sub-MOA group at 300 yards with my SPR....impresive...

[gtronin]

I am going to start learning in a couple of weeks, thanks to being newly inspired. I like having control, so I figure reloading would fill that need.

[DeltaWhisky58]

Beautiful goddamned rifle by the way. The style is perfect. That's my idea of a hunting rifle.

I'm fortunate in having a friend who is a real old-fashioned Birmingham-trained gun maker. I assembled the various components for this rife over a couple of years back in the late 80s, and he built the rifle for me - result a superb weapon at a ridiculously low price.

[Flagg]

I'm trying to learn reloading from some friends bit by bit, just need to find the time.....

[Hollis]

I'm fortunate in having a friend who is a real old-fashioned Birmingham-trained gun maker. I assembled the various components for this rife over a couple of years back in the late 80s, and he built the rifle for me - result a superb weapon at a ridiculously low price.

I can only echo what has already been said, that is a very beautiful Rifle.

Ok, My reloading set up, I have been reloading for over 35 years so... With patience from a loving wife, I was able to add stuff...

California Joe, the Powder measure that is mounted high on the door, is for Black powder cartridges.

[Adam Wilhelm]

I can just repeat what CJ said, beautiful rifle.

[Flagg]

I'm fortunate in having a friend who is a real old-fashioned Birmingham-trained gun maker. I assembled the various components for this rife over a couple of years back in the late 80s, and he built the rifle for me - result a superb weapon at a ridiculously low price.

A very nice rifle...I'm jealous.

[California Joe]

Damn Hollis that's quite the set up.

I used to work on a naval base that was once a Naval Powder factory. They had some interesting set ups for playing with large amounts of black powder. There was more than a few streets named after workers that died during accidents there over the years.

[Hollis]

Damn Hollis that's quite the set up.

I used to work on a naval base that was once a Naval Powder factory. They had some interesting set ups for playing with large amounts of black powder. There was more than a few streets named after workers that died during accidents there over the years.

During the war of Northern Agression, the South got pretty creative. I forgot the mans name, he was very instramental in keeping the South in Powder.

I will have to take a few pics of my front stuffers. My oldest shooter is a 1818 Springfield. I had the '42 Belgium conversion to percussion and then was rifled for the CW. I have a repro of the Berdan's Sharps too.

I use to buy BP in bulk, 25 pounds at a time, max legally is 50 lbs. I think BP is still my most favorite to shoot. I have been doing it sence 1971. First rifle was a Zauve(SP), and it went from there. Even when I was clowning around I took a 3rd place on a state SASS BP shoot.

One of my favorite Handguns in the BP is the walker, never missed.

In the group I associate with, I am.. the lease prepared. Great group of guys up here... but psst don't tell no one.

[Pidyon Shevuyim]

use to reload .223, but gave in and started just buying surplus...however im now getting into molding and loading .577 for my snider.

[gtronin]

hey, just cause I am curious... can you reload tracer rounds?

[Pidyon Shevuyim]

hey, just cause I am curious... can you reload tracer rounds?

yes, you can buy tracer mixes of all different colors...just got to google and search for tracer reloading...and you will find alot of stuf.

[Geezah]

If I wanted to start reloading bulk .223/5.56 loads in 77gr possibly 75gr depending which one works best in my Bushy, what sort of set up would I need?
Any chance you could provide a few links or point me in the right direction for a set up that is not too pricey but is reliable and is a quality product?

Thanks ahead of time.

[DeltaWhisky58]

There are progressive presses, i.e. ones which work on rotary basis carrying out a sort of production line where you feed in empty cases at one end and each time you pull the handle a loaded round pops out the other, but I'm not sure if these would be suited to producing 5.56x45 squibs.

They certainly work fine for high-volume pistol users, loads of pistol shooters here in the UK used to use them to fuel their PPC habits and the likes. It would all depend if the level of accuracy you require can cope with purely measured quantities of powder - I don't see why not, after all that is how military/commercial production line work in any case.

http://www.rcbs.com/images/pro2000_1.jpg

I'm talking about something like the RCBS Pro 2000 Progressive Press (http://www.rcbs.com/default.asp?menu=1&s1=4&s2=2&s3=4) - perhaps one of our US members could comment on the suitability for volume loading 5.56x45mm?

[Hollis]

I use my Dillon progressive for everything except, case forming, and very small loads, such as 20 rds,

Dillon has a good site and bulk reloading is dicussed on many of the rounds. Unless a person is a match bench rest shooter, Progressive are a good way to go. Biggest problem is that they are more expensive. On starting out one has a lot to buy. Also, IMHO a single stage is easier to start on, but not necessary to start on one.

I Still have a single stage press and would not get rid of it. I have several calibers that the cases are no longer made and it is great for forming a base case in to the one I need. like 357 Mag to 256 win mag, or 30-30 to 30 herret.

A lot of shooting clubs use progress with great luck. remember accuracy is relative to what you are shooting at. 1000 M match bench is probably amongst the most time consuming to load. Most people will settle for a less accurate load. (less accurate is still less than 1 MOA)

[Geezah]

DW58 and HoLLis, thank you for the pointers, it gives me an idea of where to start.
It will be probably a few months off before I could invest in one, might be around Xmas when we get our profit share checks(hoping we get one this year) but I'm patient and like to fully read up on what I'm about to get into, what ever it may be.

HOLLis, is there much of a market on used reloading equipment?

I'm currently on Dillon's website and the prices aren't as bad as I thought:)

[dangerdan87]

I use a single stage Lee press because I was on a budget when I build my SPR and that SPR needed "special" rounds ;D

I will get a Dillon 550 prog. sometime in the future.

[Hollis]

DW58 and HoLLis, thank you for the pointers, it gives me an idea of where to start.
It will be probably a few months off before I could invest in one, might be around Xmas when we get our profit share checks(hoping we get one this year) but I'm patient and like to fully read up on what I'm about to get into, what ever it may be.

HOLLis, is there much of a market on used reloading equipment?

I'm currently on Dillon's website and the prices aren't as bad as I thought:)

There is a little market, You have to keep a eye on the papers, and guns show. Occasionally I see stuff come up, but there is a wait in between.

Lee makes Ok stuff(some really great stuff), often over looked because they are pretty inexpensive. There are started kits from reloading equipment manufacturers, that seem to be a pretty good deal. Depending on your resources, how much you reload, and what you want to do those kits may be a very good way to go. It is slower, but then aren't we all a bit slower when we are starting out. One addition to those kits would be a case tumbler, for cleaning cases. Then you would have everything you need, except dies and components.

I have two 550 B, I been thinking, Humm maybe a 650 would have been a better choice than a second 550 D. I have mine set up as big primers and little primers. Sometimes I could use a 5 stage press, especially with Black powder loads where I use a reduce load and need to fill the space with corn meal. NOTE there are Special Black powder auto feeds, DO NOT USE A SMOKELESS ONE.... it can go BOOOM. I doubt I would get a 650...

I think the problem with progressives, they help a person become more lazier. Just like the auto Primer tube feeders, doesn't save me much time, because I like to watch the action.

[DeltaWhisky58]

I use an RCBS Rockchucker press which I've used now for about 15 years, but before that I had a Lee press which is probably OK for low volume use, but really was not up to the relatively high volumes of fullbore rifle ammo I used to turn out. The RCBS press will easily outlive me and I'm unlikely to ever need anything else.

I remember Dillon presses from pistol shooting friends who spoke highly of them.

[Geezah]

Ok, I've check out the three websites, RCBS (http://www.rcbs.com/default.asp?menu=1&s1=1), Dillon (http://dillonprecision.com/default.cfm?) and Lee (http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1147456853.1671=/html/catalog/lp1000.html). I'm leaning towards Lee seeing as I would be a complete newb to reloading and not keen to jump in head first.
Plus it doesn't seem that expensive.

[dangerdan87]

Your gonna need alot more than jsut a reloading kit.
Tumblers are plus. Case lube (comes in the kits, but I love the spray lube where you can spray a couple hundred casings at time), case length gauges. And thats just the basics.

[Flagg]

I'm buying a Classic Lee Loader to start really learning the basics of reloading.

It costs F'all...so if I don't have the time for it, no big deal, and if I do get into reloading I can always upgrade to a proper rig.

[Hollis]

I'm buying a Classic Lee Loader to start really learning the basics of reloading.

It costs F'all...so if I don't have the time for it, no big deal, and if I do get into reloading I can always upgrade to a proper rig.

Upgrading is not a bad way to go, it gives you a chance to find out were you are going and what you want. There are lots of reloading stuff and lots of choices.

If your going to do rifle cases or use non carbide dies, case lube is must, there is pad, (pretty cheap and spray). Most pistol cases (streight wall) does not need to be lube when using carbide dies.

Midway USA has some good case gauges kit for pistols. There at other tools that are cheaper, once you have been reloading several times, (especially Magnum loads) case lengths needs to be check. If your using used brass for someone else.. the case should be checked too.

case trimers are a little spendy, but with care you can avoid getting one for a while. You can set cases aside that need to be trimmed until you get a case trimmer.

Tumblers can wait a little too. Depends on how dirty your bass is. If your picking up brass that has been outside for a while they are worth having.

Go with a kit, use your once fire brass or new brass to start with. Once you start loading, it will help you to determine what else you need.

[sergey31]

I would like to reload, but don't have much time for it. Just for my S&W 500 itself costs me around $150 to $200 for the ammo each time I shoot.

One thing about reloading is that if you ever makes a mistake and your firearm becomes a hand grenade then no one will pay for it but you.

[Hollis]

I would like to reload, but don't have much time for it. Just for my S&W 500 itself costs me around $150 to $200 for the ammo each time I shoot.

One thing about reloading is that if you ever makes a mistake and your firearm becomes a hand grenade then no one will pay for it but you.

that happens, when you uses wrong powders. On your 500 pretty unlikely.

Powders are rated by how fast the Burn (explode) Bullseyes is one of the fastest. Pistols tend to use the faster powders, rifle use slower powders.

Some book will give you chamber pressures, GOOD to know for older stuff.

Let say for a 30-06 load is 65 grains, if you use Bullseye, it will disassemble the rifle. BLC-2.. a nothing will happen.

It is good to use a reloading log to keep record of your loads, and it pays to check powder and powder charges carefully and twice..

[DeltaWhisky58]

Ok, I've check out the three websites, RCBS (http://www.rcbs.com/default.asp?menu=1&s1=1), Dillon (http://dillonprecision.com/default.cfm?) and Lee (http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1147456853.1671=/html/catalog/lp1000.html). I'm leaning towards Lee seeing as I would be a complete newb to reloading and not keen to jump in head first.
Plus it doesn't seem that expensive.

Just a word of warning - whilst Lee are great in the accessories line, my opinion is that their presses aren't of the best quality - consoder paying the extra bucks and buy RCBS (my pref) Lyman or Dillon, you'll reap the benefits.

[Hollis]

Just a word of warning - whilst Lee are great in the accessories line, my opinion is that their presses aren't of the best quality - consoder paying the extra bucks and buy RCBS (my pref) Lyman or Dillon, you'll reap the benefits.
Good advice DE, glad you mentioned it. The rock chucker by RCBS, orange crusher by Lyman, will last for ever and do what ever needs to be done. You will never need to upgrade it, unless you go to a progressive.

IF <--Big if, you will never load much, and stay small rifle cases and pistol, the lee will be fine. It is a money choice, if you go from the Lee to a progressive it will save you money. DOwn the road IF you get into big cases, case forming etc, then you can get a heavier single stage press. There are people who only have a Dillon, and that is all they use.

I think it is very hard to second quess what I will be doing 5 years from now. If I knew, I could save lots of time and money.

[Hollis]

One of the problem with reloading......The fear of loosing your cases.

You buy 100 rds of 9 mm brass, you shoot 100 rds, and when you fill your box up, you have 98 rds. What to do, for the next hour or more you comb the area looking for the lost 2 cases. (value 20 cents). You come back at night with a flash light to "find the lost case". The cases will relfect the light... sometimes.

After all bullets are in incriments of 100, primers the same.

Next time buy a extra brass and hold some in reserve. When you get back to your relaoding bench you can infill those empty spaces in your ammo box.

Bolt actions are no problem, but some auto will kick the brass all over the place, some rifles like the G3 beats the heck out of the brass.

It is a good idea to police the area where you shoot, even with non-reloadable cases. Along with picking up the targets. One way to loose permission to shoot on property is to make a mess and leave it.

[DeltaWhisky58]

I know and appreciate the problem - I still experience it and yet I only load centre-fire rifle ammo for bolt action rifles. In the heat of the moment, you take shot at a deer, rack the bolt for a fast re-load just in case ... ... yes, you guessed it - you can't find the bloody case!

OK, that is a rare situation, but as I try and stick to Finnish-made Lapua cases, bought as unfired brass in hundreds, imagine my delight the first time I opened a box to find that I had actually bought 102 or 103 cases - makes life a little easier! A good job as premium cases like Lapua - IMO the best there is (try weighing 100 cases one at a time and see how consistent the case weights are) - are not cheep!

[TacoDelRio]

Question for those in the know of reloading:
Is Norma brass any better than Lapua?

I've got a Japanese Arisaka Type 99 in 7.7x58mm, and Norma and I THINK Lapua are the only companies I've seen that produce the brass for it. I might eventually get into reloading for match .308 loads, fun 7.62x54Rmm loads, and the rest of the world.

[DeltaWhisky58]

Norma brass is OK ... ... well pretty good, but IMO it is way inferior to other European brass, in particular that from RWS and even better Lapua, the best of them all by far.

[dangerdan87]

I use LC (Lake City) brass

[Seraphim]

I only reload .45 acp.

[Hollis]

I may have some reloading stuff for sale. Also I did not want this thread to get lost in the nevernever.

A guy I know is retiring from farming and sold out, I bought his reloading stuff. What I would probably sell is a Rock chucker press, RCBS powder measure and stand, a Lyman I beam scale, primer tray and case lubercator pad... maybe some dies. I have not looked at all the dies. I would probably sell the above for $100 plus shipping. Everything looks fairly new. Maybe throw in some misc. stuff, extras that I alread have.

[TacoDelRio]

I wish I had space, I'd buy it and load some .308 match loads. :(

[Geezah]

DW, thanks again for the heads up.

I may have a lead on some reloading gear over in Indiana, my brothers roommate works with a guy that has some reloading gear he no longer uses. I'm currently trying to find out what he has and if he wants to sell, and if so for how much.

On the subject of brass and policing your brass, I priced brass catchers for ARs last week, they seem to run around $30-$40.

[Engine Mech]

My reloading is budget. I use a home made portable press and i reload on the kitchen table. I used to melt lead on the open fire in the lounge but i found molten lead sticks to the carpet. I melt home made bullet lube on the kitchen stove. I wash black powder shell cases in the kitchen sink. I make all my own wads for black powder shot gun cartriges.

[udt87]

I might eventually get into reloading for match .308 loads, fun 7.62x54Rmm loads, and the rest of the world.

If you can find 7.62x54R brass that isn't Berdan primed, let me know... you can't reload Berdan primmers, or at least to my knowlage.

[DeltaWhisky58]

If you can find 7.62x54R brass that isn't Berdan primed, let me know... you can't reload Berdan primmers, or at least to my knowlage.

Of course you can re-load Berdan primed cases, people have been doing it for generations, it is just a bit more difficult to de-prime the cases. Typical Berdan de-priming methods are to use hydraulic pressure or special de-priming pins.

[udt87]

^^ wow, I did not know that. But I still don't have the money for a hydraulic pressure de-priming thing... ;)

[Hollis]

^^ wow, I did not know that. But I still don't have the money for a hydraulic pressure de-priming thing... ;)

Actually you make it, and is probably the easiest approach. Another aspect is PRVI makes most calibers and the cases are boxer primed.

The hydraulic way,

1) make a rod the fits the case mouth in diameter, close tolerance. It has to be about twice the case length.

Fill case with water, Need a block that the case will set in and align the case over a pocket that is recessed for the primer to fall into too.

Some care, water will squirt.. how much depends on how well you do the first part. I machined one, that had "O" ring seals for the neck of the case and rod. It is a lot of work. Crimped primers are much harder to remove. I think after trying this, a person will just toss the berdan cases in the recycling bin, and buy boxer primed cases. I did.

Place rod into the case mouth, down to the shoulder, whack the rod with a hammer.


Also with a lot of work you can convert berdan to boxer prime.

RCBS makes a berdan de-priming tool, about $50.00 last time I looked.

Berdan primers are available in the US, but generally has to be special ordered.

[DeltaWhisky58]

If you can get boxer-primed cases, use them - but there are some calibred which are not available - often Berdan is the only way with some of the older, more obscure European calibres.

[Hollis]

If you can get boxer-primed cases, use them - but there are some calibred which are not available - often Berdan is the only way with some of the older, more obscure European calibres.


Have you looked at Prvi, they seem to make a lot variety now. I hesitated buying a few firearms a number of years ago, because the ammo was not available in the US. I should have bought them and waited, Oh Well.

I don't know what the UK/Euro Market is like.

The other option, is re-forming a popular case to the one you can not find. Example 8 MM Hungarian from 7.62 X 54R. I do that with a 6.5 Sauer that I have. I use another case and form it. I have several rifles that ammo is no longer being made, fortunately there is a base case available. Like 256 Win Mag from the .357 case or 30 harret from 30-30 Win.

[DeltaWhisky58]

Have you looked at Prvi, they seem to make a lot variety now. I hesitated buying a few firearms a number of years ago, because the ammo was not available in the US. I should have bought them and waited, Oh Well.

I don't know what the UK/Euro Market is like.

The other option, is re-forming a popular case to the one you can not find. Example 8 MM Hungarian from 7.62 X 54R. I do that with a 6.5 Sauer that I have. I use another case and form it. I have several rifles that ammo is no longer being made, fortunately there is a base case available. Like 256 Win Mag from the .357 case or 30 harret from 30-30 Win.

I have known/seen it done here, but as firearms ownership is now so difficult here in the UK, this option is less and less likely these days.

[Engine Mech]

In CHCH NZ we have a handloaders club and a local branch of the Antique Arms Association. There are a lot of hand loaders here, loading almost anything you can think of. They also have a range where they shoot regularly. The only thing limiting you is budget, imagination and technical skill. But now getting the cases in from overseas is a problem.

[udt87]

Excellent! I've been looking into taking some indepth reloading courses, and I know this info will help. Thanks alot HOLLiS & DeltaWiskey58. :)

[Engine Mech]

For those who shoot the 13TuF you can make them out of 50 cal, just add a rim and send them through a full length resizing die. Then cut to length. Resize the projectiles, reuse the powder and refit the projectiles.

[schwarz]

I've been thinking about reloading for awhile now and since my life pretty much consists of working out and drinking(no college this yearwoot) while stcratching the days into the wall, I need a new hobby that and ammo is getting expensive.


I figured with all the experience here this would be a good place to start asking questions. I've been looking around the net reading everything I can on reloading the past few days and decided on this kit (http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1186973361.982=/html/catalog/anivers.html). Usually I would buy the best(firm believer in "you get what you pay for") but I don't have a whole of money to drop on a really good set up right now and I am outta here in a few months.

I'll be reloading mostly 9mm,.45ACP and 10mm maybe a few rifle rounds(7mag,.223,.270,30-06) doubtful but we'll see how it goes. I don't mind spending hours reloading one round at a time(less time to get in trouble right;-)). Accuracy for pistol rounds is not a big deal, as long as it goes bang, my gun is still in one piece and I am not bleeding I am happy.

Now for some questions.

What brand/type powders do you reccomend?(pistol loads)

What sites do you reccomend for bulk brass,bullets and primers?

Any good sites you recommend for reloading info?

Whats the "rule of thumb" for reusing your brass(one time only?) and picking up brass at the range(noone picks up their brass around here:)).

What to look for as far as picking up brass good/bad signs(besides the obvious), I know you can't reload Wolf.

Thanks for the replies, I am sure I'll have lots questions coming.

[orange]

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b212/HighlandSniper58/04-05-200616-18-23_0002.jpg


Damn that's a nice rifle DW!
I've been looking at military rifles and carbines for such a long time now that I've completely forgotten how good an old bolt action can look.

What I've, as far as bolt action is concerend, is a Husqvarna 30.06 and a Carl Gustav 6,5x55.

But to be more ontopic:
One of my best friends dad does his own reloading and from an economic point of view, it's way cheaper + that you get the bulletsetup that suits you, and your rifle. Someday I'm going to ask him to teach me this handy craft..

[StukaJr]

What brand/type powders do you reccomend?(pistol loads)


Your manual should recommend powder for your particular caliber. Weight of the bullet will determine the optimal powder as a rule of wrist - my personal favorite is Unique though.




What sites do you reccomend for bulk brass,bullets and primers?

www.midwayusa.com is good, but I find that bullets and primers can be found cheaper from a store - bullets are heavy and primers come with Hazardous shipping surecharge that's pretty steep.



Any good sites you recommend for reloading info?

Stay away from the internet - Reloading manual is good, two is better. As a beginner - if you are starting with Speer bullets, then get Speer Manual, if Sierra bullets, then obviously get Sierra manual... Lee's manual suppose to be easiest to understand for the beginner - their website has educational videos that show various processes as well. Your manual will also be the best source on cartridge history, external ballistics etc.

I bought a manual and have read it on a vacation trip - came home, bought another manual and read it as well, gave additional insight on stuff I've missed. If you can find a class in your area - it's well worth it... Internet is good for tested loads - almost every powder manufacturer will post their data. Manuals teach the process through and through - you really don't want to cut corners.



Whats the "rule of thumb" for reusing your brass(one time only?) and picking up brass at the range(noone picks up their brass around here:)).

It will be explained in your manual. You can inspect brass for strains, hairline cracks etc and choose when to chuck them. Loose primer pockets are a sign that brass is on its last leg - compare the new brass to your resized brass in shape and color (when brass begins to wear thin, you can see the line where it weakened). If you got time - dot the headstamp with a sharpie and count the dots through reloads... that's just the tailend of it, so manual up :)

Brass varies in thickness from caliber to caliber, manufacturer to manufacturer - 9/40/45 brass just happen to be rather tough and you are more likely to lose your brass than shoot it out.

One suggestion - start picking up the brass now and dumping it into large tupperware bowls, boxes or shallow buckets... You can never have enough brass p-) If you are going after consistency - buy Starline brass for your first load. It's cheap (for common calibers), quality made and you won't mistaken them for someone else's ejections [pun intended] - and in semi-auto offerings, you'll lose them faster than wear them out.



What to look for as far as picking up brass good/bad signs(besides the obvious), I know you can't reload Wolf.

Make sure it's not Berdan primed, no split mouths, no serious deformations, deep dents, bulges - some guns shear the brass and chew them up. If brass is laying around plenty - toss anything that doesn't look pristine.

Brass is also like poop from a cow - I'm not a veterarian nor play one on TV, but brass says a lot about correct operation of the particular firearm or potentual flaws.

[Hollis]

I think Stuka said it all. Take your time, develop a fools proof method of reloading and you are pretty much GTG.

[schwarz]

StukaJr,

Thank you for your reply, it's appreciated.

[Engine Mech]

Stuka has posted some good information. Don't be macho. Stay away from the hot loads. Mid range loads tend to be more accurate and your guns will last alot longer. Look at the primers of spent brass for signs of too much pressure. Best of all, take your time and don't get distracted when reloading.

[vryhpyammoadded]

Reloaders beware; Congress is busily back dooring the reloading market. A new DRMS requirement forces the mutilation of military brass to prevent reuse. The DOD has been my chief provider of high quality used .223 and .308 brass for decades. Lets see what other clever regulations unfold to end run us all. Lets see, if they’re smart they’ll dictate all primers be crimped next but that won’t be enough; maybe legislate cheap thin aluminum cases be manufactured only and make lead a controlled substance?

I suspect our hobby will be “legally” ending very soon. You all know my rather extreme opinions of Congress and the parties so I’ll save you the colorful metaphors currently coming to mind.

Well, at least I’ve recently purchased 2k good used .223 and .308 brass predicting this crap before the door got slammed.

[Hollis]

I copied this post from another forum, looks lilke we are back in business again.

The military was not critical to reloading, it depends on the reloader. Great cases for plinking. I missed the Midway sales on that stuff. Fortunately I have some tucked away.

Anyways.......... from the other form, another person's post:


Dear MSSA Friends,

I just received a phone call from the office of U.S. Senator Tester of Montana to inform me that at 5:15 (EST) today a letter cosigned by Senator Tester (D-MT) and Senator Baucus (D-MT) was faxed to the Department of Defense asking DoD to reverse its new policy requiring destruction of fired military cartridge brass. At 5:30, I am told, Tester's office received a fax back from DoD saying that the brass destruction policy IS reversed.

Others report to me that they are already seeing evidence of this on the Websites of entities that liquidate surplus DoD commodities.

Our thanks go out to Senator Tester and Senator Baucus, and their staff, for getting on this problem promptly and making the reversal happen

Staff for Tester and Baucus promise they will get me the documentation for this reversal tomorrow morning. I'll forward that when I get it.

Best wishes,

Gary Marbut, president
Montana Shooting Sports Association
http://www.mtssa.org (http://www.mtssa.org/)
author, Gun Laws of Montana
http://www.mtpublish.com (http://www.mtpublish.com/)