I've been told to just remove the thermostat altogether....is that a wise decision?
Shocker; sorry to say I just got fed up with her and stopped starting it, kinda like a kid who has soured on a toy. So I went and bought a gizmo to siphon the gas out.
Now how the hell do I dispose of 10+ gallons on gasoline?
I think I'll post some pictures of my engine and what I'm doing so you can review
I'm pretty good with electronics but worthless when it comes to engines
Bless this thread!
Well if your going to throw out your thermostat, you might aswell drain the coolant and just replace the thermostat...well the thermostat for my car is pretty inexpensive. My car has been sitting for about 4 months now. I put gas stabilizer in it and gasline antifreeze with water remover.
A few of other things with the overheating on the Stang Laworkerbee. Make sure your radiator cap holds the correct pressure. The coolant must be under pressure in order to absorb the heat, if not it will bubble over like a shaken Coke until it cools off. If all else fails, radiator good, thermostat good, cap good and you still over heat you may have combustion gases leaking into the coolant or low oil pressure, ignition timing, clogged muffler.
Spray some WD-40 or the like into the cylinders and turn over the engine by hand today.
On 1998-2003 Ford f150, Explorer, Ranger, Expedition and Excursion the steering link joints sometimes squeek. These joints do not have grease fittings but use a teflon type insert for lube. After time the teflon will polish and make noise. The book says replace them but if the joints are still good and tight but making noise I have a quick fix. Using a hypodermic needle fill the joint with WD40 or the like through the dust boot. Do this on each joint and work the steering until the noise is gone. This will extend the life of the joint greatly saving you a few dimes. Replace the joint if the boot is damaged or the joint has play. If you do not know what I am talking about move on.
Last edited by shocker1; 03-31-2007 at 10:36 PM.
Hey, put that back. I read these things you know. Jeez.
The Service Center is now open to all members. Thanks to Cali Joe and the members who support this thread. Yes I am the main poster in this thread, what of it!
Don't let the Fast lube pull a fast one on you. They will try and sell you Synthetic blends with promises of cooler engines and higher mileage. In fact cooler engine temps mean more fuel. Synthetic blends ane great for close tolerant engines that use neoprene or polyvinyl seals. If your car is 1999 or older your engine most likely uses rubber seals and gaskets. The smaller molecule of synthetic oil will leak from these type seals and increase engine blow by in engines with high mileage.
Pure good old Valvoline 10w30 in winter or 5w30 in summer is fine. If your car is a highly engineered art piece that has a work of art for an engine with modern seals by all means use the synthetic. Otherwise you are wasting you green, creating oil leaks, clogging EGR passages and damaging converters
Last edited by shocker1; 04-02-2007 at 08:12 PM.
To extend my Automotive e-zine into all aspects of Automotive repair and diagnostics, we will now have my tool of the week.
This weeks tool is a short circuit, open circuit detector. The Faultfinder. This genius tool uses radio waves transmitted on the circuit your testing to find the issue. I have had mine for a few years and it sure beats the old solenoid/magnetic field short detector. If you want to know the company PM me as I do not want to advertise too much.
SHORT/OPEN CIRCUIT TESTING SET
• Use it to locate short circuits, open connections, broken wires, current leaks and even trace wires.
• Kit includes:
• FF310 Short/Open Circuit Finder - Noncontact technology, operates on DC voltages from 6 to 36 volt
• CT80 Professional Circuit Tester - High-impedance circuit tester. Computer and air bag safe. Operates on DC voltages from 3 to 28 volt
• CT6100 Fuse Socket Connector Set - Fits all mini, ATO and Maxi size automotive fuse blocks.
• All packaged in a rugged hard case
• The set comes complete with a short/open circuit tester using proven technology, a high impedance tester and a fuse socket connector set.
Damn nice tip about the oil change places and it just might explain the damned puddle underneath my truck
My '93 Ford Taurus keeps missing... We suspect that it may need it's Spark plugs replaced but just aren't sure.
Any suggestions? (Aside from get a new car.)