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Thread: MP.net Auto Service Center

  1. #76
    **** you 20122. how goes does gaz type drunk? dricl. man Hellfish's Avatar
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    Good to hear. Just making sure. It's weird driving my car now and not hearing that horrible grinding noise.

  2. #77
    Grease Monkey shocker1's Avatar
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    Default Tip of the Week

    This tip is for the DIY people. Someone who does not break stuff taking it apart and putting it back together.

    On 1997-2003 Ford Mustangs, F Series PU and SUV's the digital odometer may not light up or the speedometer is inoperative or both. This is a common problem most likely caused by faulty solder joints. Remove and disassemble instrument cluster down to circuit board.

    Inspect all solder joint connections where the odometer plugs in or where the speedometer is. The bad ones will have a circular crack all the way around the pin in the connection. You must use a magnifying glass and an LED flashlight would be great. Once you find the problem heat the pin at the joint to melt old solder and apply new with flux too.Most component board problems are due to this issue.

    If you can't do it or have no idea what the hell I am talking about this is not for you. Not responsible for damages due to use of tips and advice. At least you know what your local Master Mechanic knows.(Hopefully)

    Examples of bad "cold" solder joints


    There are four bad ones in view here.

  3. #78
    Last of the Mohicans boone's Avatar
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    LOL!
    You ARE good, Shocker!
    I don't even have to post my problem and you're diagnosing it!
    My '99 1/2-ton has had a spotty odo for a while now.
    Won't tackle it my self but I do have a buddy I trust.
    Thanks!

  4. #79
    Aquafina scrybe's Avatar
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    Shocker, if I put a 2" spacer lift on my Jeep and put on larger tires, do I have to buy the unit to reset the speedo and everything for the larger tire size or is that something I could rent or have done cheaply locally?

  5. #80
    Grease Monkey shocker1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrybe View Post
    Shocker, if I put a 2" spacer lift on my Jeep and put on larger tires, do I have to buy the unit to reset the speedo and everything for the larger tire size or is that something I could rent or have done cheaply locally?
    Depending on the size tire your going to, you can get a outputshaft gear to adapt to the correct ratio. I think it's like 1 or 2 mph decrease per additional tooth on the gear. Go to a 4x4 shop or Speedo repair place and they could hook you up cheap. The output shaft sensor is located on the driver side of the transfer case tailshaft housing.

    The dealer will tell you the the PCM needs reprogramming, this could be the case sometimes. The ABS could cause a pull but you will know that after you change the gear. This has more of a chance to happen the larger over factory size you go. Chrysler products are overly complicated electricly, a module even for each door. Most Jeeps I have seen just need the gear. Hope that helps.

  6. #81
    Aquafina scrybe's Avatar
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    Hrmm, alright. Well I think what I have on there right now are P245/75/R16s. I would probably go up to a P265/75/16. If it's only 1 or 2 mph I may not even worry about it.

    First, I'm takling the exhaust system. Been out to a local exhaust shop a couple times, called another shop a couple times in my hometown, and been researching online. Was getting some appraisals way higher than I was expecting.

    Just got a call from the local shop and they offered to do the job for over $200 less than they originally quoted me. For a custom mandrel bent system, 3" pipe starting just in front of the cat, 3" Carsounds Magnaflow Cat, Flowmaster 40 series, and O2 sensor, they offered to do it for $700. I could order a kit online that Jeep guys are speaking highly of for a lot cheaper, but after the cost of shipping, installation, and any modification, I wouldn't be saving too much, maybe $100.

    I know what I'm doing after class tomorrow afternoon.
    Last edited by scrybe; 04-09-2007 at 09:57 PM.

  7. #82
    Grease Monkey shocker1's Avatar
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    Hey that sounds like a great deal. I don't know about the kit but your set up would be sweet. Yeah on the speedo just drive it like it is, if the speedo is off to much or it eats gas you might need to do something. If the ABS acts up, which is doubtfull, remove the main fuse for the ABS pump not the relay until you get it fixed. Thats not much of a change in tire size so I don't see a big deal.

  8. #83
    Senior Member ZaakM433's Avatar
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    I have a '92 Chevy Llumina with 184k mi (the car not the van), it's front wheel drive. I notice while nearing my house that I am pushing down on the pedal and my engine is revving up appropriately but the speedometer is going nowhere. A few moments later it is fine. I was concerned but hoped that it was just an unusual happening. I took my little brother somewhere the next day and as soon as I leave the driveway I feel like it did the same thing again but then it was working and I wasn't sure so I drove on. I stopped to let my little brother get out without taking it out of drive, when I put my foot back down on the accelerator engine revved up but no power whatsoever. I have tried getting it to go into gear to no avail, no drive, 1st, 2nd, it will not shift. I checked the trans axle fluid and it does not look as red as it should, it looked brownish to me but still reddish - I am no mechanic. While I could not shift into each gear before checking the level of the fluid as per instructions to properly check the fluid level because my car will not shift the fluid level was above, well above, the highest level it could have been while cold.

    I was just hoping somebody had an idea, don't want to waste anybodies time. I'm hoping it is only burnt fluid, wrecked filter, or a bad pump. Heres hoping. Just wondering if anyone had any ideas. I know it is definitely something with the transmission. Would fouled trans axle fluid or a bad filter be capable of causing it to not be able to go into gear or is it much more likely to be a worse problem.

  9. #84
    Grease Monkey shocker1's Avatar
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    Well Zaak you got a major problem. It is possible that the filter is clogged causing low trans pressurre resulting in clutch slippage. Most likely the front pump has gone out, broke drive chain or an internal pressure leak in the valve body. So minus the filter possibility which I doubt will help, you need a new tranny or rebuild the one you have. Either way it will cost ya a shiny penny. Over a $1000 easy, you would be better off with another car IMO.

  10. #85
    Aquafina scrybe's Avatar
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    Got the exhaust taken care of today. 3" mandrel bent piping, Carsounds Magnaflow Hi-Flow Cat, and Flowmaster 40 series muffler. It sounds pretty mean.

  11. #86
    Grease Monkey shocker1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrybe View Post
    Got the exhaust taken care of today. 3" mandrel bent piping, Carsounds Magnaflow Hi-Flow Cat, and Flowmaster 40 series muffler. It sounds pretty mean.
    Kool, what kind of intake mods have you done? Like a K&N kit or something, With all that new airflow out the back, the factory air intake set up may hold you back on power.

  12. #87
    Aquafina scrybe's Avatar
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    Yea, I already have a full K&N Cold Air Intake. The only thing holding up airflow now is the headers, which are definitely going to have to wait.

  13. #88
    Senior Member ZaakM433's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shocker1 View Post
    Well Zaak you got a major problem. It is possible that the filter is clogged causing low trans pressurre resulting in clutch slippage. Most likely the front pump has gone out, broke drive chain or an internal pressure leak in the valve body. So minus the filter possibility which I doubt will help, you need a new tranny or rebuild the one you have. Either way it will cost ya a shiny penny. Over a $1000 easy, you would be better off with another car IMO.
    Yeah. If its a major problem I'll be getting a new (new for me anyways) car , and spending money for it . Replaced the fluid and the filter, no fix. I don't really have the means to do much more so its going to the shop for the chance that it is the pump or some sort of linkage or valve. Hopefully it will be a peripheral issue instead of a wrecked transmission.

    I don't think it is a clutch slippage because I would think that it would be noticeable when attempting to shift. There is no sound or any sign when shifting that it is affecting the engine or transmission at all that I can tell.

    Anyways, thanks for the note, I appreciate it.

    Still crossing my fingers.

  14. #89
    Another Custom Title shorty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrybe View Post
    Yea, I already have a full K&N Cold Air Intake. The only thing holding up airflow now is the headers, which are definitely going to have to wait.
    May I suggest http://rustysoffroad.com for all your jeep needs? Site has everything!

  15. #90
    Aquafina scrybe's Avatar
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    Yea, definitely shopped around there a lot. I'll probably end up getting a 2" budget boost from them. www.kevinsoffroad.com is another great Grand Cherokee resource.

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