Originally Posted by Laworkerbee
Ha! you dumbed it down for me I like that, I'm still clueless! I will take a picture tonight with me jerking on the damned hose
no pun intended
Thermostat housing,
heater hose = small outlet. Radiator hose=large outlet
Remove attaching bolts to get at thermostat. drain coolant first though.
Your a good man Shocker I will give it a shot tonight
Thermostat housing,
heater hose = small outlet. Radiator hose=large outlet
Remove attaching bolts to get at thermostat. drain coolant first though.
Thanks to you as well HOLLiS
From the top of the radiator to the engine block there is a hose about 1 1/2 inch in diameter. The fitting that it is attached too at the engine, is held down by two bolts.
Probably get someone who is not too dangerous with a wrench to help you.
The thermostat is below that fitting.
No problem. Be sure to clean the mating surfaces of the housing and the intake(engine). Use a little Ultra Grey and put a very thin coating on the mating surfaces and use the gasket. Fill the coolant and leave some air at the top then start the engine. When the engine gets hot enough and the thermostat opens the coolant will drop quick so be ready to fill it then. Put the radiator cap back on. Good luck I got to get back to Star Trek.
Don't worry Dad I have an awesome tool set
I'm trying to remember the line from Fast Times At Ridgemont High
Don't worry Dad I have an awesome tool set
I'm trying to remember the line from Fast Times At Ridgemont High
Just besure your tool does not get the drips.
I would like to have some advice how to get rid of dried asphalt on the rims of my car,i think it is asphalt but a friend did tell me that it could also be dust from the breakepads
the car is an Nissan Maxima SE 20th Anniversary Edition (2001)
Pictures of the rims
I assume this is a Honda right? To get at the seals you will have to remove the timming cover. The timing belt and pulleys will have to be removed to replace the seals. If you intend to do this PM me with the car specs and I will give you some pointers. It will most likely be the cam seal but the crank could also be bad. The valve cover gaskets leak on those at the corners so that could run down there and could run oil along the edge of the head and block mating surfaces. Your best bet would be to remove the cover and have a look at where the oil is. Once you do that I would still go ahead and change all the seals on the front and the valve cover gasket. If the head is seeping oil try a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer, it will help stop that. I would not worry about the headgasket until coolant leaks, down cylinder or lots of oil comming from the center exahust side of the head.
If you do not find a bad hose or line the canister or the Purge Solenoid is the cause. You will have to have a hand vacuum pump or your mouth to test those. When you test the purge valve test with both 12vdc applied and no power. It should be sealed with no power and open with 12vdc applied. Use a couple of jumpers to the battery unless you have a scan tool to operate the bi-directional controls like the EVAP Solenoids. Then take the pump or your mouth and a section of line and test. There were no TSB's for your issue. Let me know what you find.
What are you doing? Besides drinking and looking at the engine.
good copy, I will try and let you know what is going on with the task...I want to rebuild the d16z6 i have sitting in my garage, but right now this one runs fine, just leaks the oil in which i mentioned. You are correct about the car, it is a honda a 92 civic dx to be exact. I will let you know what I plan to do
Dried asphalt !!!
Right best one is Autoglym tar remover,if not that thinners (only a little)
That should shift it,if its brake dust afterwords use instant show shine on the rims and it doesnt stick that much if it does a dry cloth and its off,the show shine is a spray btw
Tip of the Week
1996-2001 Chevrolet/GMC Full size trucks, vans and SUV's with Vortec 350 (5.7L)
These vehicles are known for fuel pump failures. The most common cause is constantly running the vehicle on 1/4 tank of gas or less. The pump is in the fuel tank within a fuel pump/sender assembly. The high pressure 55psi makes the pump draw a fair amount of current and build up some heat. What may scare some of you is the fact that the gasoline itself cools the pump. Running the fuel low all the time overheats the pump and causes pressure drop outs then failure. Remeber there is an electric motor immersed in gas in your tank running hot and shorting out. Cool huh.
You can buy just the pump and disassemble the fuel assembly to replace the pump inside. There will be a short wiring harness that runs from the pump to the external connector at the top of the fuel assembly(see image). You must check this connector for heat damage or you will be pulling the tank back out. The fuel pump kit should have a new connector but some off brands don't. You can pick one up at an AC Delco Parts store or a GM dealer.
This is a GM fuel sender assembly. The pump is housed in the bottom portion. Note the harness to the top. Hope this helps somebody. Not responsible for any damages resulting from those who break stuff after reading this.
i have also noticed this problem on 90's dodge truck and jeep grand cherokees, the cherokees are specially bad since the tank is all the way to the back and the reservoir is very small. the best way to go is not to let the car drop below 1/3 tank on any car with an in tank injection pump.1996-2001 Chevrolet/GMC Full size trucks, vans and SUV's with Vortec 350 (5.7L)
These vehicles are known for fuel pump failures. The most common cause is constantly running the vehicle on 1/4 tank of gas or less. The pump is in the fuel tank within a fuel pump/sender assembly. The high pressure 55psi makes the pump draw a fair amount of current and build up some heat. What may scare some of you is the fact that the gasoline itself cools the pump. Running the fuel low all the time overheats the pump and causes pressure drop outs then failure. Remeber there is an electric motor immersed in gas in your tank running hot and shorting out. Cool huh.
You can buy just the pump and disassemble the fuel assembly to replace the pump inside. There will be a short wiring harness that runs from the pump to the external connector at the top of the fuel assembly(see image). You must check this connector for heat damage or you will be pulling the tank back out. The fuel pump kit should have a new connector but some off brands don't. You can pick one up at an AC Delco Parts store or a GM dealer.
This is a GM fuel sender assembly. The pump is housed in the bottom portion. Note the harness to the top. Hope this helps somebody. Not responsible for any damages resulting from those who break stuff after reading this.
if you must replace the pump or have done it already a couple of times an you dont feel like pulling the assembly from the tank, consider installing an in line holley EFI pump. these pumps are far more reliable than the delco units on these year models . these holley pumps are also good for replacing unreliable pump designs on other cars, such as replacing the notoriously unreliably and leaky pump an pressure housing assembly on MKII volkswagen golfs
Good tips, on some intank units with a pulsation dampner you must remove the pump/dampner and connect the line to the sock at the bottom. The pressure will pulsate bad if you don't. Some cars have no dampner or the dampner is on the fuel rail. Those you can do just like you said with no mods. I had a Suburban in the shop that someone put an inline on. That was when you could only get the fuel assembly that was around $400. It had a bad fuel pressure pulse and removing the old pump cured that. Good stuff thanks for posting some tips.
It costs more money though in labor and parts to replace with factory parts. All good things for me.
Last edited by shocker1; 04-20-2007 at 10:02 PM.
this is true, before considering this mod it is essential to check that there is no dampener on the fuel assembly .i have only done this mod on older vehicles so i have not faced any dampener problems .the $400 OEM assembly is what makes this mod worth it considering. it can be done by the shade tree mechanic for about $150 US. also aftermarket pump sources like AutoZone is not carrying as many pump only units and are moving to sell complete assemblies only so this mod is an option. considering also that holley can be trusted for quality.Good tips, on some intank units with a pulsation dampner you must remove the pump/dampner and connect the line to the sock at the bottom. The pressure will pulsate bad if you don't. Some cars have no dampner or the dampner is on the fuel rail. Those you can do just like you said with no mods. I had a Suburban in the shop that someone put an inline on. That was when you could only get the fuel assembly that was around $400. It had a bad fuel pressure pulse and removing the old pump cured that. Good stuff thanks for posting some tips.
It costs more money though in labor and parts to replace with factory parts. All good things for me.
Yep Holley is tops. I have their alcohol fuel injection on my rail and of course all the 650's and 750 DP's that have graced the engines of my various rides. BTW did you ever get that EVAP figured out?
sure did, the carbon canister is in the back under a plastic basket so it was a little difficult to get to , the canister evac line from evac valve to air intake housing was disconected at the valve so mud had gotten inside the line and the evac valve was stuck, not surprising when the canister on this design is almos rigth behind the rear wheel, some sprays of WD40 fixed it.
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