Reply With Quotehave you switched out the water pump or the thermostat?
Alright. My Landrover over-heated on my first date in 3+ months. We took it to two mechanics who couldn't find the problem. We alsoput in a total of 2-3 new parts. Still over-heats. What happens is the vehicle stalls and the coolant spills out when the arrow hits the heat (red) bar. I was told that the radiator was completely fine and didn't even need to get flushed. I purchased a fan clutch that will be here on Friday. This is the last thing on the list since all else failed (flushing/replacing the radiator ensues, though).
Landrover Discovery '98
Series 2
4.0cl
V8
have you switched out the water pump or the thermostat?
if your cooling system components are fine; fan clutch , thermostat ok and radiator is not clogged , consider checking your ignition timing, bad timing from misadjusted distribuitor or skiped timing gear sprickets can cause overheats, same goes for clogged catalytic convertors.Originally Posted by maa3057
I have had a very intriguing diagnostic issue on a 1999 Ford Explorer. It is a no start with spark but no fuel pressure. It has a P0231 and 232 codes which are fuel pump secondary circuit low and high respectively. So I check for power at the relay, power at the fuel shut off switch and at the pump. Power everywhere, good ground and connections at the tank.
So scratching my head I decided to apply external 12vdc to the pump at the tank connector. Shezamm the pump runs fine so what gives. In my mind I rationalize a high resistance connection is dropping out under current load. So i break out my trusty Fault Finder and trace the circuit through connectors and bulkheads all the way behind the ac box under the dash. Turns out some idiot had the ac box out and crushed a connector causing just enough connection to get power when checking the circuit minus the pump. When load is applied the connection resistance is enough to stop the increased current. Truck has been to three shops, two fuel pumps and a computer. Bunch of damn shade treers, leave the complicated **** to the Masters.
Here is that circuit fault finder. Worth it's weight in Platinum
http://militaryphotos.net/forums/sho...0&postcount=57
Hey Shocker, occasionally when I turn off my ignition the heater fan will make a clicking sound for a minute or so, even when the fan is off. 96 Suburban.
Any ideas?
New blower motor, it always has power but is ground through a resistor pack. If the windings or brush dust cause contact in the motor it will run at super slow speeds making a clicking noise. That is an old time GM problem. Could also be some trash in there too.
just saw a small amount of oil where my engine and transmission meet up, I am praying the rear main seal isnt going out also. i just changed the oil yesterday. all that motor has to do is last till after the new year when i can get my taxes done and get me a new motor
Thanks buddy. You're really good at this stuff.
Didn't we toast Shocker to last night?Thanks buddy. You're really good at this stuff.
HAHA I am LA famous, show me the money!
Anyone know a good tutorial to adjust your headlight beam?
Audi A4 - Sludge Report
Hey, I got an Audi A4, and I keep hearing about sludge. What the hell is sludge? I'm figuring it's oil colagulating and causing issues. Also, I'm using synthetic oil, and always have. Does that negate the sludge issue?
If you change your oil at the recommended times then sludge will not be a problem. Sludge is contaminates, fuel, oil and water cooked together in hydrocarbon vapors.
Cool. Yeah, I change it often. Another thing, one of my audis say change it every 5000 miles, and the other one says every ten thousand miles. One is a 2005 and the other a 2007.
And does synthetic oil make any difference in the sludge. My audi service professional says yes, but I'm not sure what they know. Thanks.
Yes synthetic does run a cooler engine and reduce deposits. Your car is new and well suited for that type oil. Also the intervals are right on but most people still think every 3000 is the best. It is really a waste since todays engines run cleaner, the oil has better additives that resist breakdown. However if you have a high millage car or older car say 10 tears old. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC oil. It will leak from every seal and gasket. the molecules of synthetic oil are smaller. Which gives you the leaks from old engines and rubber seals. Neoprene seals are the new thing and make a better sealing bond with surfaces. Anyway the Audi guy knew what he was saying.
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