Reply With QuoteYea but it has a drag CD of .31 which is pretty friggin awesome!Originally Posted by D3ath
EDIT: I got it Shocker...thanks anyways!
Formula and no I am not converting it for you.f= c 1/2 ρ v2 ahttp://aerodyn.org/Drag/tables.html
where
f= drag force
c = drag coefficient
ρ = Fluid density
v = flow velocity
a = characteristic frontal area of the body (the / is a divisor) ( the v2 is v to the 2nd power ect..)
Yea but it has a drag CD of .31 which is pretty friggin awesome!
EDIT: I got it Shocker...thanks anyways!
I was being complicated. If you have a list of vehicles and the data listed all nice share the link. Some numbers to go with the post I made would be a good thing.
Hi guys. First time I visit this here thread and I hope it pays of. Thing is, my missis drives a -03 Chrysler Voyager and last week it was in for the 75000 km service. Changing of the transmission oil is not in this service, but since we just bought the car I felt it would feel good to have it changed anyway. Well I picked it up Friday after work, and driving it home I noticed that when decelerating from cruising speed, say 70-90 km/h, to 30-40 km/h the last gear "jumps" in rather than the normal smoth transition. It does not happen everytime, but close to it. I would appreciate any input you might have. Wouldn't feel to good about myself if I go ape**** on the mechanic tomorrow and its not his fault.
Thanks in advance
John
Always change Chrysler transmissions with Mopar ATF +4 to avoid problems. If you changed it with an off brand you're are asking for trouble use Mopar or Valvoline ATF +4. If this transmission fluid was the wrong type like Mercon ect.. you will need to flush the system. If it was cheap ATF +4 or a brand other than listed just change the fluid.
suspect your trans fluid. check your fluid level, if correct , check the fluid condition , the fluid should be brigth red and transparent, if the fluid is dark brown or black, the fluid is burnt and must be changed along with the trans filter. trans fluid is usually changed every 10000 or 20000 miles.find out what type of fluid was used on the last service interval for the trans. most chryslers use atf-4 but many are equiped with mitsubishi transmissions that use SP fluid, there are lasy mechanics out there that dont want to hunt down SP atf , since it is usually only found at Mitsubishi and Hyundai dealerships , and use Mercon or super atf instead, these mitsubishi transes are very sensitive to the wrong fluid. you may need to change it by having a flush done, if it requires SP then that should be your first choice, if SP is not available in your area then you may be able to use Chrysler ATF+4 or synthetic ATF+4 but nothing else.
Thanks to both of you for the advice. They used Mopa 9602 oil, and I just called Chrysler Scandinavia to check with them and they say thats the proper oil. So I'm kinda back to square one.
Thanks again though.
The new fluid may have changed the way the transmission operates. Take it to the dealer and have them check for software updates, trouble codes and perform any relearn procedures. A hash shift is the number one symptom of improper fluid in a Chrysler product transmission. The vehicle will operate in a different way even when the fluid is changed with the proper fluid. You may have to live with it until the system adapts, even after a relearn.
Thanks Shocker, much appreciated. I just came back from the mechanic, but the cynic in me is having trubbel accepting what is probarbly fact, nobody's at fault it just happened. I think I will take heed to your advice.
Tough call.. I have a fist size holes in body of my car(lower parts of doors mainly) due to corrosion.... Buying new car isn't a an option because we already did that, I just want the car to be in service for a little longer, professional body job would cost more than car is worth, finding new set of door in better shape than mine is possible, but question is. Is there a home way to fix that? I don't want look. I want to clean corrosion from the door, then secure bare metal, fill the holes and spray over a layer or two of MOTIP from can of car spray... Anyone did that stuff? Any good tutorials, walkthroughs or whatever you happened to find on the Internet?
How good is your welding skills(oxy/aceteline or mig)?
Non. I have transformer arc&rod welding machine... My dad have some experience with it, but none with thin sheets of metal... We may experiment a little, but I don't know if arc&rod machine is good enough for the job...
Can anyone give me a ballpark-figure on replacing a heater core on a '99 F150?
From what I can glean from teh webz it's beyond my capabilities/resources to do it myself.
*Edit. Also, I was planning on looping the inlet and outlet hoses to keep the coolant in the engine for the time being. Any problems? (Other than no heater, obviously)
It calls for 7 hours labor. At my rate of $70 per hour that would be $490 labor, heater core is about $45 and a gallon of antifreeze. So a little over $500. The dash must be removed(at least laid back from the fire wall). I can do it in about 2 hours.
You can loop the hoses with no ill effects other than no heat. Good luck and Happy New Year!
Thanks for the reply, shocker. That's better news (shop-time wise) Than I was expecting.It calls for 7 hours labor. At my rate of $70 per hour that would be $490 labor, heater core is about $45 and a gallon of antifreeze. So a little over $500. The dash must be removed(at least laid back from the fire wall). I can do it in about 2 hours.
You can loop the hoses with no ill effects other than no heat. Good luck and Happy New Year!
Happy New Year to you, too!
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