MP.net Auto Service Center

[Hawkeye4077]

You're not saving any gas. Or any worth noticing.

Also, shifting to N while coasting down a hill, if you brake, will actually put more wear on your brakes, because you're not getting the braking force that the engine provides while in gear. And it's also going to be more dangerous should you need to make any maneuvers. I have heard that coasting in neutral is actually illegal but I'm not sure. Either way, I wouldn't bother doing it.

Cool Aero, thanks a lot

[wagon]

DISCLAIMER: I know nothing about cars

So I've been in the habit lately of shifting into Neutral when going down steep hills or when I just want to coast to a slower speed while going down a hill, stuff like that. Anyways, I for some reason am thinking that I am somehow improving my 2005 Nissan Pathfinder's 15 MPG city 22 MPG highway gas mileage by doing this. Am I? Am I actually doing the reverse and wasting gas by doing so, or is the improvement in mileage so small that it's not worth doing anyways?

Better to knock it back a gear or two to keep the revs up above around 2500rpm. Most factory efi systems have a closed throttle fuel cut that works over about 2500rpm. That means no fuel at those times. If the motor is idling down the hill it's using fuel. Plus, like Aero said, you have engine braking if it's in gear.

[shocker1]

Sup wagon, ya'll been busy?

To the question, not much to add good advice from Aero and wagon. Want to save fuel? If it has been some time since you changed coolant, thermostat, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter you should according recomendations of course. Take it to a shop where they can look at fuel trim numbers and such while they tune it up. You would be surprised at how much fuel is gobbled up by a stuck open thermostat.

[wagon]

Sup wagon, ya'll been busy?

To the question, not much to add good advice from Aero and wagon. Want to save fuel? If it has been some time since you changed coolant, thermostat, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter you should according recomendations of course. Take it to a shop where they can look at fuel trim numbers and such while they tune it up. You would be surprised at how much fuel is gobbled up by a stuck open thermostat.

Yeah, run off my feet.. we are moving house (again) so I have not been getting much done - customers are getting peeved. Yourself?

[shocker1]

Been steady, seems everyone is becoming aware of the need to maintain the car. Customers are always peeved, the ones that stop by Autozone to get codes read, ERASED and tell me what is wrong always get disappointed. They can't understand why I need them to leave things alone.

[RECON DOC]

Hi Shocker.
My Suburban (1500 1994 V8 with AC) been acting up a bit lately. Seems like it' a fuel issue.
Idles fine, but intermittently, it is sluggish and hesitant when accelerating from a full stop. (under load) Runs fine once it's rolling along
Just replaced Cap, Rotor, (wires were good) plugs, fuel filter, and just added injector cleaner.

Any ideas? ***Prays it's not fuel pump*** cringes***

Thanks in advance

[shocker1]

It is a throttle body injected K motor right? If so the fuel pump only runs around 12 psi or so, those don't fail as often but they do. Need to watch fuel trim numbers while it is doing it with a scan tool. The screens in the two injectors often become clogged, the pressure regulator is a common cause with those. It could also be tranny related, like the converter or something. My 95 3/4ton was doing something similar and it was the injectors. I replaced them. Any service engine soon lamp? Could also be a catalytic converter, those are notorious when they get many miles on them.

[RECON DOC]

It is a throttle body injected K motor right? If so the fuel pump only runs around 12 psi or so, those don't fail as often but they do. Need to watch fuel trim numbers while it is doing it with a scan tool. The screens in the two injectors often become clogged, the pressure regulator is a common cause with those. It could also be tranny related, like the converter or something. My 95 3/4ton was doing something similar and it was the injectors. I replaced them. Any service engine soon lamp? Could also be a catalytic converter, those are notorious when they get many miles on them.

No service engine light. Replaced the converter (factory) recently.

[shocker1]

Ah, well get some Techron fuel treatment. It works, take off the air cleaner. Start it up and look at the fuel spray pattern from the injectors. If you have a timing light it makes it easy to see. If not use an LED flashlight or a florescent, they help you see it. It should be an even cone shape when you rev it up. It will drip at idle so rev it up to 2000rpm. If the pattern looks uneven or has gaps in the cone the injectors could be causing your problem. look for leaks too.

[RECON DOC]

Ah, well get some Techron fuel treatment. It works, take off the air cleaner. Start it up and look at the fuel spray pattern from the injectors. If you have a timing light it makes it easy to see. If not use an LED flashlight or a florescent, they help you see it. It should be an even cone shape when you rev it up. It will drip at idle so rev it up to 2000rpm. If the pattern looks uneven or has gaps in the cone the injectors could be causing your problem.

Thanks buddy! I'll try it tonight. I appreciate your help.

[EZFEED]

Can this section be used for parts requests? If not please delete.

[digrar]

Can this section be used for parts requests? If not please delete.

Nope, not allowed.

14. There will be no soliciting allowed in Militaryphotos.net forum posts. Do not attempt to sell or advertise anything here. This means in the public forum as well as via private message. If you are not sure if you are in violation of this guideline, ask a moderator.

[EZFEED]

OOPS Sorry bout that, thanks for deleting!

[digrar]

No worries.

[TacoDelRio]

This one might be a bit off, but I figure I'll ask here first, since y'all are good people.

In short, how would an engine swap go from a FF to an FR?

I have a 1990 Nissan 240sx (S13 Silvia, coupe) with the USDM KA24E SOHC 2.4L I4. My buddy and I were in a crash. He rolled his new-ish Mazdaspeed 3. We figured we could probably get the waaaay newer (and more powerful) motor from his car and get it into the 240. 240's are big on engine swaps, everything from the easy (and illegal where I live) Japanese SR20DET, to 'Vette motors, to whatever. big engine bay means more space to get lines going where they need and all that jazz.

I just have no idea how the tranny would go. FWD car engine into a RWD? His was a 6spd manual, mine's a 5spd manual. Rotate motor 90 degrees and get a custom driveshaft or something? Engine mounts would be the easy part. Probably hafta take the intercooler off (top mount), and set up a front mount with new piping blah blah blah. Also a more "known quantity".

MZR23(T) DISI 2.3L IF Direct Injection, Turbocharged w/TMIC:


Whoo.