Reply With QuoteThanks man, I will look into all these problems. If you get a chance can you tell me how much it would cost for a mechanic to fix it? I may just opt to get a new car. Not sure, this Taurus has been a pain.
Cylinder misfire is causing the fuel trim numbers to exceed the limit. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY TO ERASE CODES. It not only resets the codes but erases transmission CVI values, learned timing and other learned parameters. It will not run right for sometime after you do.Originally Posted by dedbunniez
I would check the ignition system, air filter you know the basics. A bad set of plugs will cause a random miss fire and run up the fuel trim values. Since both engine bank's O2 sensors are reading the condition as indicated by the P2196 and P2198 codes. It is most likely not both of them going bad at the same time. They should last a long time much further than 95k. Something is telling the PCM to keep subtracting fuel for a reason.
An out of range mass air flow sensor could also cause this. To accurately diagnosis this condition you would need a scan tool and read the Baro parameter. The pcm uses this sensor to calculate the atmospheric pressure. If it is off it will fool the PCM into thinking it is at an incorrect altitude and will use the wrong trim values for fuel mixture. You can try to clean the hot wire of the sensor with electrical parts cleaner. If you want to attempt that be careful, you could cause more problems.
The EVAP *(small leak) could have been a loose gas cap at one time. Have the gas cap tested and if the code comes back you need to have the system checked with a smoke machine.
Things could always go to hell also. Like a bad PCM, engine mechanical problem but my experience with these particular cars leads me in the directions I sent you. I have never replaced a fuel injector on a 2000 and up Taurus/Sable.
Thanks man, I will look into all these problems. If you get a chance can you tell me how much it would cost for a mechanic to fix it? I may just opt to get a new car. Not sure, this Taurus has been a pain.
Ford hoped Australia would like those POS. We didn't. Can you burn it?
Well, on one of those rare occasions where I get off my ass to do something productive (driving to a major televised job fair in Hollywood that starts at 0600hrs and I've been up all night), I find myself stymied by my POS, unreliable Jeep.
The check engine light is on, and the last time I drove it with the check engine light on (for about 3 days) I spent hundreds getting it fixed. I simply can't afford to take that risk right now. The radiator is brand new and I checked it, it's full. There was a small puddle of water on the passenger side but no green coolant, plus the coolant tubes were replaced recently anyway. I checked the oil, and while it's a bit nasty, the level is safe enough. The oil gauge on the dash is all over the place, though, bouncing from about 20 up to ~60.
A few months ago I had a misfiring cylinder but that was supposedly fixed by my mechanic (he's generally done a good job, works on lots of high-performance cars and whatnot). Considering the frequency of repairs and generally poor performance I've had since I blew a head gasket in May (and totally replaced the engine), I'm tempted to take it to the dealership. I have some of those lame Holiday coupons they like to send out. An oil change + checkup might point out all the problems.
Any thoughts?
^^ Sometimes a second opinion doesn't hurt. It might just need an oil change and some minor stuff.
Been researching these codes a little, just need a sanity check on what I think it may be.
LinkMy car is a 2000 Duratec Vin codes "S"
Another Taurus forum I frequent has been having a lot of these codes lately on 2000 and newer models
A couple of weeks ago I threw the P0171 lean code.
I cleared it and ran 5 or 600 miles and then threw P0171 and P0174. This means that both banks are showing lean
On wednesday my car started running rough when I started it in the cool morning and has been doing it every morning since
Afte doing some research and then acquiring the parts to fix this It has pretty much been agreed to by other people that have had the same problem .
The rubber tube that connects from the upper intake manifold and goes down into the PCV valve deteriorates ,gets a hole in it and collapes.
This causes a vaccum leak which triggers the lean codes.
These are the parts needed to fix the car.
YF1Z-6A664-AB which is a rubber and steel hose assy available only from Ford. It is about 23 dollars at the dealer and 12 dollars at the online ford places.
You also need the PCV valve which is motorcraft part number EV-243
Many parts stores have this PCV valve listed wrong.
Some people may be able to fix it differently than I did but the following procedure is they only way I could do it and I am a fairly Decent wrench.
Take the upper intake manifold off and disconnect all hoses , electrical plugs and fittings off.
Pull the wiring harness up and out of the way.
Get a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers to be able go grab the PCV valve and turn it counter clockwise to get it to come out.
Put the new PCV in .
Attached the new hose assy and then put the upper intake on using new gaskets.
This will eliminate the codes and restore a smooth idle and better gas mileage.
This is a picture of the correct parts needed for the job.
These parts can be had online for around 20 dollars
I hope this helps
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=768631
Shocker1,
Maybe you can help on a mod that I am working on. I want to add one of those thermostat controlled electric cooling fans to my truck but instead of buying one of those aftermarket units I was thinking of robbing something off of a car/truck at a salvage yard. The aftermarket ones I have found are all double fan units with a high and low speed fan and that is really not what I'm looking for. What I need or would like to find is a single fan unit that I can press into service. I dont need the high/low speed because the engine is aircooled, I just need something that will draw more cool outside air into the engine compartment and also have a large enough circumference to shove the hot engine compartment air back and out thus helping with cabin temps. Something with a 3' fan would be nice and would still fit but I could run two smaller units too as long as they have the same RPM.
If you look you can see how much space I have up in the nose and I can pretty much weld in any sort of brackets that I would need.
(S'cuse how filthy everything is, I had just come off my dirt road)
So in your experience have you run across any vehicles with electric fans that would fit my bill? If so what should I look for in the junkyards?
The circutry is unecessary, I just need a good 12V fan. I'm thinking of putting a thermocouple maybe midpoint or two thirds back in the air jacket and running that the the switch for the motors. That and I want a manual override so I can shut it off when driving on flooded roads.
Last edited by EZFEED; 12-15-2008 at 04:43 AM.
Some Lexus and Toyota models had a hydraulic fan driven by something like a power steering pump. These were switched on and off by a solenoid - actually, a larger version is used on earthmoving stuff eg. front end loaders. Maybe one of those would swing a big (3 foot!) fan. An electric fan in that size would have a huge motor.
Just food for thought.
Now here's something else too.
I've been swapping out all of the incandescent exterior lighting with LED units for safety. I'm keeping the lights that have unique lenses like the front turn signals original by simply gutting the incandescent sockets and replacing them with LED marker lights. The tail lights were a fortunate blessing because I was able to find same circumference replacements at Harbor Freight that were DOT approved and would fit in the incandescent buckets after they were gutted. Good stuff and looks great; this is where I have started my conversion.
Totally fly now
OK this is what I'm having a problem with here. I am going from a 3 wire system to a two wire (2 because on the original3 wire the + is supplied in the socket which would normaly be ground and on the new LED's the ground which is + now is fed via wire). The incandescent setup had the tail light on top (one single filament bulb) and the turn/stop on bottom (one double filament). I 'would like' to be able to use just these tail lights to cover all functions without having to install a separate set of smaller lights for turn signals.
Here are the details of the HF lights. Note that this vehicle uses a 12V/24V POSITIVE GROUND system. The lights are all 12V positive ground and these were 12V negative but I took them apart and dumped the circuitry then soldered everything back on in reverse order so now they function with 12V positive ground. You will see three connectors on the back. The one on the left is the ground which is now (+) in, the middle is the tail (-), and the right is the stop/turn (-).
The problem is the same regardless of polarity; I need to be able to use my flashers independently of the brakes.
Now I haven’t been able to try this out on the truck yet but I know the circuit on the truck and I don’t see this working unless I have a relay somewhere?
If I push the brakes then I have completed the circuit and the LED's will light brighter but if I'm stopping and want to indicate a turn on that same side then I need some way to interrupt that circuit for the flasher to work. I still want the flashers to work independently as well without tapping into the brake circuit.
Can you think of a common relay or something that will work in this scenario that I can splice in back there?
Might work, but when you talk about parts for big machines you are talking big $$$$$ and I want to keep it on the cheap side if possible.
I would have no problem using smaller multiple fans too, its just that every one of them I see have the high and low speed fans and I want to shoot for a consistent airflow in the compartment. 3 foot is indeed large and if it were something I could find in a truck or something then it could possibly be game. For a size example that would be the largest that I could fit.
And to add, power consumption is another thing I am trying to cut back on as well thats another good thing about the LED's.
With the 30mm cannon turret plugged in I have to run the engine at a certain RPM if I dont draw off the two batteries in the turret box.
I'll think about it.. it will most likely involve a couple of relays and some diodes. Should be OK.
Just remember its kinda backwards so to speak being positive ground.
I'l try and draw a diagram later tonight but basicaly the original wiring is just the 3 functions (tail/turn/brake) which are all - and then + come from the the body.
Thanks so much for your help if you can!
Just to add my 2 cents to the Ford OBD2 code issues.
I used to own a Ford with the 3.8L V6 and those engines were known for having faulty rubber grommets around the isolator bolts in the intake/plenum.
Felpro used to make a gasket set for the tech. service bullitin that Ford put our for this f-ked up design issue.
Not sure if Felpro still makes these Intake/Plenum/Isolator Grommet kits, but that's a very possible reason for your codes.
Of course, as the professional (Shocker) has suggested, check the easy thinsg first (deatached vacuum line, MAF sensor, intake leak with carb cleaner).
Just an opinion from someone who has already suffered from this same damn problem.
Thanks mud,
I am just thinking about getting rid of the POS ford and getting a good foriegn made car.
Now to decide which one to get. About 30k is my budget, in case you have any suggestions.
Find a 1999 and up Camaro. The fan on those is very good, V8 or V6. Perfect size and attachment points too. If you want two speeds you can get a resistor kit from the parts store or Jegs. It will have a double pole temperature switch for high and low speed circuits, relays, low speed resistor and fuses. Let me know what you find.
There is a TSB on that issue. Big problem on the Windstar's and Taurus, the new grommets from Ford seal good. GM has a plastic intake on some 3.8l that had an aluminum tube for the EGR that ran through the plastic intake exiting at the throttle body. The tube would melt the intake, rubber gasket and cause a major internal coolant leak. Many times spraying into the airstream from the throttle body. The fix was a smaller diameter tube that did not contact the intake and allowed air to cool it. Brilliant!! I could go on and the foreign makes have there own problems. It is not limited to the big 3
By a Honda, trust me.
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