MP.net Auto Service Center

[wagon]

I am betting on the coils.

I sort of am too. Although it is a bit unusual for them all to go at the same time! X3 Excel coils do play up a bit, so maybe the proper EDIS coils will be the goods. We only used excel coils (and N14 Pulsar plug leads) because thats all we had at the time that suited the deep 1uz plug holes in the cylinder heads. We will most likely need to make or have made some custom leads.

[Fade]

So I checked a few things Shocker mentioned and it didnt seem to alleviate the rough running and stalling/sputtering/backfiring. The GF was going to her parents on saturday so I mentioned to get her dad to look a few things over just to be sure. He decides she should send it to a shop cause he doesnt want to get cold or dirty or some **** and offers to pay for it...thinking its some small repair I imagine. Instead of finding out what the problem was, they just started replacing everything, including some **** not even related to the problem...

new plugs
new air filter
fuel filter
cap and rotor (pretty sure it didnt even have one)
all new spark plug wires
valve cover gasket
new unibelt
oil filter/oil change
washer fluid (14 dollars for a topup)
"tuned electronic ignition"
brake shampoo (WTF)

Final bill - $827.61

You bet your ass he is still paying for it

[Roy Batty]

I just bought an '08 Ford ranger with a 5 speed transmission and the V6 4L. So the question is; what RPM should I be shifting at? I feel like I may be shifting too early. Opinions?

[MN_Air]

a shift light?

now I plan on getting a nice exhaust for my car to make it sound better than the grumbly fart that it is now it will most likely be a borla universal one.

which ones have the best "car" sound to them I don't want anything that screams or anything that is like a big old truck but just something that is a higher pitch and kinda loud.

anyone have any experience with borla exhaust?

[Death.]

I just bought an '08 Ford ranger with a 5 speed transmission and the V6 4L. So the question is; what RPM should I be shifting at? I feel like I may be shifting too early. Opinions?

Depends on what you're doing..if you're hauling ass, shift when you hit the redline (or if you know exactly where your powerband ends in your rpm range, shift there), If you're cruising around town trying to save gas mileage you could probably shift at 2000rpm or lower and be fine..

You can't really 'shift too low' unless you stall out or something, That 4.0 has decent torque so I don't think you'll have problems shifting at low rpms, make sure to keep the rpms high on the uphill though.

[Burntrubber87]

a shift light?

now I plan on getting a nice exhaust for my car to make it sound better than the grumbly fart that it is now it will most likely be a borla universal one.

which ones have the best "car" sound to them I don't want anything that screams or anything that is like a big old truck but just something that is a higher pitch and kinda loud.

anyone have any experience with borla exhaust?

A friend of mine has a Borla catback on his GMC Canyon 3.5L Inline 5(ran 15.5@96mph), and it sounds pretty good. It fit perfect and i'm not kidding the motor with this exhaust sounds like a half of a viper motor, that weird throaty 5 cylinder sound, sounds awesome though and the borla is muffled enough so it won't attract alot of attention, but is loud when you get on it.

[shocker1]

So I checked a few things Shocker mentioned and it didnt seem to alleviate the rough running and stalling/sputtering/backfiring. The GF was going to her parents on saturday so I mentioned to get her dad to look a few things over just to be sure. He decides she should send it to a shop cause he doesnt want to get cold or dirty or some **** and offers to pay for it...thinking its some small repair I imagine. Instead of finding out what the problem was, they just started replacing everything, including some **** not even related to the problem...

new plugs
new air filter
fuel filter
cap and rotor (pretty sure it didnt even have one)
all new spark plug wires
valve cover gasket
new unibelt
oil filter/oil change
washer fluid (14 dollars for a topup)
"tuned electronic ignition"
brake shampoo (WTF)

Final bill - $827.61

You bet your ass he is still paying for it

Wow no converter grease or blinker fluid? Did the problem go away with this shotgun approach? Tuned Electronic Ignition? LOL Sorry but that one is funny. The shampoo is a cleaner. Never heard it put in that way.

I just bought an '08 Ford ranger with a 5 speed transmission and the V6 4L. So the question is; what RPM should I be shifting at? I feel like I may be shifting too early. Opinions?

You shift when you....... well, damn . I just listen to the engine. seat of the pants type thing. Normal driving I would say 2000-2500 RPM. Factory shift lights are crap. They are there to satisfy MPG goals. you will find this shift point too low most of the time. Twist that bitch up once and a while. It's good.

[Aerosoul]

8250 rpm.

Just kidding. What the guys above said. Enjoy your new truck.

[Death.]

Wow no converter grease or blinker fluid? Did the problem go away with this shotgun approach? Tuned Electronic Ignition? LOL Sorry but that one is funny. The shampoo is a cleaner. Never heard it put in that way.


You shift when you....... well, damn . I just listen to the engine. seat of the pants type thing. Normal driving I would say 2000-2500 RPM. Factory shift lights are crap. They are there to satisfy MPG goals. you will find this shift point too low most of the time. Twist that bitch up once and a while. It's good.

What cars have these?! Lol

[MN_Air]

What cars have these?! Lol

maybe his check engine soon light comes on and thats when he knows to shift?

[redhawk_six]

What could cause a vehicle to occasionally pull to one side when braking other then low tires or a dragging brake? The vehicle is a 95 Isuzu Rodeo with 210,000 KMS. I have repair records from the previous owner, and at 205,000 KMS, his mechanic noted excessive play in the front wheel bearings and noted cracking in the outer cv boots at 201,000 KMS, however, neither are noted on newer recipts, and seemed fine when they were checked before buying the truck.

[Burntrubber87]

What could cause a vehicle to occasionally pull to one side when braking other then low tires or a dragging brake? The vehicle is a 95 Isuzu Rodeo with 210,000 KMS. I have repair records from the previous owner, and at 205,000 KMS, his mechanic noted excessive play in the front wheel bearings and noted cracking in the outer cv boots at 201,000 KMS, however, neither are noted on newer recipts, and seemed fine when they were checked before buying the truck.

Well if the brakes and tires are good, then I would look at tie-rod/ball-joints and steering joints in general. I doubt the cv boots have anything to do with the pulling but, the wheel bearing could. Do you have a humming sound thats get louder/faster with speed? I would jack the front end of the truck off the ground, and grab each front wheel and try to "shake it" from side to side, if there is any play in the wheel side to side the tie-rod or steering parts could be worn, if it has play up and down, like pushing and pulling the top of the wheel, then the wheel bearing is bad.

[shocker1]

What cars have these?! Lol

Honda Civic, Ford Ranger, F150,250,350 ect...... Chevy S10, Colorado. Do I need to list more? So that knee jerk haha is on your ass pal. It is an option for many manual transmission vehicles. So yeah, a damn factory shift light. It usually says shift or up shift but hey what the hell do I know. It is a good idea to check what I say before you go off half cocked.

[wagon]

Well, the no-spark EDIS equipped 1uz gets stranger... we made a test rig and both modules tested OK. So it has to be the 1Vpk-pk signal (tiny!) we are getting from the denso VR sensor on the crankshaft..... We tried a Mitsubishi Magna (Diamante) ABS sensor - we now have spark, but it's not right - motor won't run properly. (We get over 4Vpk-pk from the Ford sensor on my Falcon at cranking speeds). Today we added an extra toothed wheel, sandwiched up against the original, doubling the area the VR sensor has to look at. Hopefully that will result in a bigger signal from the Toyota sensor. I'll post the results. Getting closer!

[Fade]

Wow no converter grease or blinker fluid? Did the problem go away with this shotgun approach?

They claimed there were no error codes, which I found to be rather convenient. Just to look if there was codes alone cost $49! I dont even know if their shotgun approach fixed the problem, I'll find out today once its run a bit longer - but I can say it still has this rough idle going on.

Tuned Electronic Ignition? LOL Sorry but that one is funny

Apparently to test and inspect the ignition 'requires a tune-up' first then it was $116 to 'Electronic Ignition (Minor) -tune-'

So yeah it went in to get diagnosed and got upsold a complete tuneup and replacement of the ignition system without verifying what, if anything was malfunctioning. I know electrical can be a pain sometimes but cmon! Don't get me wrong, I dont mind bringing my vehicles in to get a job done right...but this upselling business is pure ****.