Alright, I need to replace the Cat. on my 97 Jeep GC with the 5.2L. While I'm at it, I'm going to go ahead and put in a Flowmaster and upgrade the pipe diameter. I don't have the money to upgrade the headers. Stock pipe diameters is 2.25". I can either upgrade to 2.25" or 3", perferably 3".
So, the pipe coming off the headers is 2.5". From the Cat back it's 2.25". To upgrade to 3" pipe, one place says they put a 2.5" cat, then swap it up to a 3" pipe from the cat back.
Wouldn't it be smarter to size up the 2.5" pipe to 3" in front of the cat, then put in a 3" cat for extra airflow? Is this possible?
I would go with 3in all the way. Can't go wrong there and if and when you get some headers you'll be ready. The 3in all the way will sound much better and will amplify that unique Flow sound. Even better if you can afford Stainless Steel.Originally Posted by scrybe
Yea, so where would the three inch pipe begin? Straight off the headers?
A collector at the header takes care of that. Two different sizes mid stream makes it pop on some engines with higher back pressure. This could be eliminated with a high flow converter though.
I'd be using a Carsounds Magnaflow Cat, which I'm told is high flow, but can't be labeled as such because it makes the EPA mad.
Missing what?
Hey, that will work. You should be fine either way then, the cheaper route is fine and will sound good as long as you don't use a factory converter or a cheap universal. Do look into Stainless though, oh and make sure they put your down stream O2 sensor back. I see exahust shops forget about it all the time.
So my coolant temperature does not move up past the first dash. But my car heats up fine. Could this be a faulty coolant temperature...also hard to start my car when it is even slightly cold outside.
Sounds like it. What kind of car I forgot? Some engines have a temp sensor for the gauge and one for the PCM. In the morning disconnect the coolant temp sensor. This will cause a fail safe -40 reading and will richin it up. If it starts better then you most likely do have a faulty temp sensor. Run by the zone and have them check for codes before buying anything. Other less likely causes are , bad ground, bad cell in the battery, coolant temp circuit, low coolant or last but not least the PCM. If you do plan on going by the Zone then do not unplug the sensor yet cause it will set a code and throw off your diagnosis.
Random miss with no real pattern. Sometimes it will do it.. .sometimes it wont. It mostly happens when i'm either going up hill... or accelerating past 45.
Miss unload like that is most likely an ignition wire arching. Replace the plugs and wires, it will run like a semi-new car then.
Sweet! Thank you very much!Miss unload like that is most likely an ignition wire arching. Replace the plugs and wires, it will run like a semi-new car then.
Buy a tude of dielectric grease and coat the inside of the ignition wire boots. This will prevent voltage leaks and make it easier to remove the wire next time.
Just finally had the time to get my breaks fixed (two months later). You were dead-on with your assessment, shocker. The rotor was toasted and needed replacement - luckily the callipers just needed alignment. I am kinda curious to know if I also needed brake fluid replacement and new brake pads as well... all told I just dropped $600.
I would say you did need new pads for sure. It is also a good idea to change fluid that has been over heated. Which is what happens when the rotor is ground down, it could even boil the fluid is enough water is in it. Brake fluid is very water absorbent and the higher the water content the lower the boiling point of the brake fluid. If it boils you will all of a sudden have weak spongy brakes. Those guys made the right call if they did all that. What was the labor rate?
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