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Thread: Modelling military vehicles

  1. #931
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    Washing is thing wich can save your model after bad painting, like with my T-26T
    Before wash

    After wash

    What about glossy decals, put under it clear acryl and on it mat clear acryl and it's all you need to do

  2. #932
    Senior Member Dling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter.pl View Post
    Washing is thing wich can save your model after bad painting, like with my T-26T

    What about glossy decals, put under it clear acryl and on it mat clear acryl and it's all you need to do
    Ah okay. Regarding the wash though, how did you do it? Did you paint over the entire model with thinned out paint?

  3. #933
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    You are taking 10 parts of clear water and 2 parts of black paint (you can give 1 fart of brown if you want) Than you are puting that at all model, after hour paint will go to all holes and water will go to the sky

  4. #934
    Senior Member Johnny_H02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dling View Post
    Ah okay. Regarding the wash though, how did you do it? Did you paint over the entire model with thinned out paint?
    Basically yes, you thin out a darker paint of the same colour with water and run it over with a big brush. It hugs the contours and raised surfaces giving it definition. I don't think its something that is specifically for saving "bad paintjobs" I think it looks good over all as a middle step to a finished model/miniature.

  5. #935
    Miss Convicted 2009 SBL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter.pl View Post
    You are taking 10 parts of clear water and 2 parts of black paint (you can give 1 fart of brown if you want) Than you are puting that at all model, after hour paint will go to all holes and water will go to the sky
    You have an interesting way of putting things.

  6. #936
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dling View Post
    I don't quite understand "washing". Do you paint over the entire model with the thinned out paint or just the crevices? Also, is it easier to paint a model once it is completely put together or should I paint them individually? Also, how does one make the decals less glossy? I'm going over to my local hobby shop today to see if they have anything interesting (most likely a tank or fighter plane). Haven't built any models in ages and when I stopped I still couldn't paint if my life depended on it.
    Washes serve a number of purposes. Because the model is scale, certain things like shadows don't look right. The wash emphasises (sp??) crevices and shadows that otherwise wouldn't be there because in scale they're too small.

    In addition, a wash is a good way of showing where the usual crap gathers on any vehicle that spends a lot of time outdoors. Oil in particular. A black wash gathers in the usual spots that oil/diesel runs into when spilt around the engine.

    You can wash with thinned down paint, or (these days) you can buy premade washes - which is what I do. Citadel make a set for Games Workshop and they're very good. They dry quickly and they're matt.

  7. #937
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    It's hard to me to talk in english so my post can be strange You must understand that

  8. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter.pl View Post
    It's hard to me to talk in english so my post can be strange You must understand that
    I understood what you were saying completely. It was just very...lyrical. No worries, pal.

  9. #939
    Senior Member Dling's Avatar
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    Thanks for the responses. Makes more sense to me now. I just bought a Revell 1/48 F-18F Super Hornet kit. Should be interesting to see how it turns up Is there any difference if I prime it on the tree vs. priming after I put it together? Again, thanks for the help.

    http://www.revell.com/catalog/produc...net-977-9.html

  10. #940
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    Hey Dling, its been a long time since I did an aircraft, but I seem to remember that priming after assembly lets you see spots where you need filler etc.

    Cheers

  11. #941
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    Hay Peter that came out grat man. Your wash did the trick. I found this for you Peter I hope it helps. Hay is that an RPM or Zvezda kit you have there. If so I have a lot of those RPM kits. Squadron use to sale that kit real cheap ($4.00), so I got a conversion kit so I can build lots of different T-26 tank types. This link may help you out on "Peter".
    http://www.poltran.com/
    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...ish+to+english
    RPM convertion kit:
    http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=MKR35029

    An for you guys that may want to buy a Merkava Mk IV faster. Go ebay style:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ACADEMY-1%2F35-I...21156002r35968

    An here for Pre Orders:
    http://www.missionmodels.com/product...oductid=194703

    http://www.google.com/search?um=1&hl...-8&sa=N&tab=iw

    I my self will wate till it gets here I have a lot on my plate like my Mk III and my Namer ARV




    I have done a lot of work on my Mk III and I realy need to get up some new photos.

  12. #942
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    Post from translator:
    It blends often far too < market > translator, e.g. I has not apprehended your posta, after translation in (to) translator.
    Post from my head:
    I think, that will be bether if I will use my own skills in english language
    That's RPM **** did for relax

  13. #943

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    @Janick & I-Tankman

    Thanks for your photos.


    I think Tankman said it... One needs a lot of shelves! Due to the work, time, skills (and money) one have put into models, they (ore at least most of them) are worth to be displayed properly. One'll need a lot of space and walls... even for the small scaled ones.

    Well, nevertheless, it's a lot of fun to regard the models shown in this thread. A virtual shelf.

  14. #944
    Member White_R34's Avatar
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    Here's some rolling thunder for yah.




















    Armored Firetruck in Iraq. Got to love this one.


    I have more but I'll let you all talk a bit frist.

  15. #945
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    Man gun trucks are awesome.

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