Reply With Quotethanks Hollis
good question, because i'm wondering now what i might run into. even thou i'm just going to design my firearm, then have a shop manufacture parts and a gun smith assemble. Because doesn't seem like i would run into any issue thou, i rather be sure.
thanks Hollis
Well I figured out what seems like a simple and easy way to get the barrel of my revolver installed without the need for expensive tools or gunsmith. *went along the lines of a Dan Wesson revolver barel lock design, But I just found out I over looked something about the Dan Wesson design which I can't believe I over looked.* Well this design might be useless now or not, depends on my revision of it.
here's the picture of it roughly, "sorry for the poor drawing skills"
Now since it's a crap drawing i'll explain it and walk through it.
starting from right to left.
First off you have the item marked as frame which is just mean to represent the frame past the cylinder and around the barrel attachment point. It has 3 small holes in it 2 for studs and one for a screw meant to go through the top stud for a secure fit of the barrel sleeve, well the bottom one offers lower support. Then you have the main hole which is where the barrel screw into, but to the left of it in an indented area meant for the barrel square ring which i'll talk about now.
The barrel square ring is meant to go over the barrel when it's screwed into the frame, in doing to it prevents the barrel from loosening or unscrewing as long as the barrel sleeve is attached and fastened. The design of the square ring is simple it's roughly square in design and is thin to so it does take up to much of the frame. The inner portion of it is a half circle half square thing which allows it to not rotate on the barrel which has a small section of the same shape.
The barrel is well a barrel, but it's not a cylindrical all the way through, but instead near the threading it is more of a 4 small sided cylindrical shape, which prevents it from rotating once paired with the square ring.
Now finally the barrel sleeve, it' simply slides over the barrel and has 2 studs that go a little into the frame giving it more sturdiness once attached. but the top stud goes through the square ring and into the frame to, where it has a screw go into it giving it added support and also a secure base holding it to the frame, well at the same time supporting the square ring by keeping it better seated thus preventing the barrel rotating and thus getting loose.
Now if your still lost, i don't blame you because i'm crap at drawing and piss poor at English to. so use your imaginary if your lost.
But if you do get it, does it seem like something that would hold and be able to stand up to stress of a revolver. Because to me it seems like this would hold together and prevented any or at least nearly all loosening of the barrel.
And remember this is a rough stretch drawn by someone how can't draw, and it's not even remotely to size or scale.
also if your wondering why i designed this because i'm designing a revolver from nothing, which mean I have to design the parts features, and then get parts made and then assemble it. I want to get this little bit out of my way so I can start focusing on the internals which I only have a blury idea of what they are going to be.
Last edited by YourImaginaryStalker; 05-02-2012 at 07:51 AM.
I've been recently toying with the idea of building a new stock for my .22 rifle.
Any ideas on how and where to start, what type of wood to use and stuff?
Walnut: Black, Claro, Turkish, Circassian or English...Lots o' different kinds...Look up gunstock blanks on google...Depending on the type of rifle it is someone might also make a semi finished one with the barrel channel cut and some of the inletting started. Still a lot of work to do...
Check this site out Jussi. I got a replacement stock for my .243 Savage 99 from them. Nice wood...
http://www.gunstocks.com/
Last edited by California Joe; 05-13-2012 at 10:25 AM.
Use two-componant clay. It's nice and moldable and then sets up like a rock. Find what you like shape-wise, then worry about getting it into something more permanent.Originally Posted by YourImaginaryStalker
Cheers CJ!
Just started the Refurb of my 1917 stock. First time, fingers crossed.
When you get done, photos would be nice. Wish you success.
Good luck, BJ. Looking forward to the pics.
Stripping
Before
As of now. thinking she needs more work,
lookin good so far
Depends if you want to build it completely from a blank or start with one inletted for your rifles action (which makes it much easier).
Looking for a cheap raised 1" scope ring for a flat top AR.(no handle). Any suggestions? I googled a few and not super excited.
Cheap sort of says why. Weaver makes inexpensive rings that are not too shabby. They come in heights, so it is a good to have a idea how high of a ring that you will need. Weaver mounts and picatinny rails are compatible. There are also raisers that will attach to your rail and give your scope additional height. I think they come in different heights too. If you were near me, I have some 1" rings that I could give you if they worked.
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