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Thread: Building Firearms...

  1. #1306
    Waywickedcool Federal Ninja Laconian's Avatar
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    Wow. Very nice job, He.

  2. #1307
    Senior Member Redguy's Avatar
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    I'm looking to replace the stock on my German Mauser 98k. I bought it a while back because it was in good condition except for the stock, which had been bubba'd.

    Does anyone know of places that sell stocks for a decent price? Ideally I would like to buy an original stock, but looking at the prices of some of these stocks on e-bay seems a bit out of my league as a poor college student.

    I have looked at boyds, but I have never done business with them, and would still rather find an original.
    http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/Replac...-98K-s/207.htm

  3. #1308
    Senior Member rhino's Avatar
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    numrich
    ...........

  4. #1309
    Member Douros81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LineDoggie View Post
    You'd be amazed what you could get Mail Order before 1968.

    1957 American Rifleman Ad
    That make me sick.

  5. #1310
    Μολὼν λαβέ Hollis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douros81 View Post
    That make me sick.
    Remember gas was about 25 cents a gallon, that gives at least a 10 times a rough inflation value. so the P17, would be $339.95. In very good shape they are around $700 today.

  6. #1311
    Member Douros81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hollis View Post
    Remember gas was about 25 cents a gallon, that gives at least a 10 times a rough inflation value. so the P17, would be $339.95. In very good shape they are around $700 today.
    I'm talking about that fact I could have it mailed to my house HAHA

  7. #1312
    Senior Member Roebuck's Avatar
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    Recently, Armalite has come out with the AR10"A" model- a Carbine and SASS configurations. the neat thing about them is that they take SR25/original AR10 waffle pattern magazines.

    To my understanding Knights Armament sells RAS MK11 for-ends on their online store for about $500.

    Do not AR10's and the RAS MK11 use the same barrel nut/ thread pitch? (URX and URXII use proprietary barrel nuts/pitches)

    Using this line of thinking. Can a budget build clone of a MK11 be feasible?


    otherwise I'm waiting on the CM901.

  8. #1313
    Senior Member rhino's Avatar
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    what is the best way of removing linseed oil from stock???

  9. #1314
    Senior Member rhino's Avatar
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    seems sandpaper and elbow greas is my answer

  10. #1315
    Senior Member LineDoggie's Avatar
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    Whoa, try a solvent first, Linseed Oil soaks into the wood and dries by Oxidation not Evaporation. Agressive sanding will just give you a bunch of low spots and irregular surface.

    I've seen and used

    Easy Off oven Cleaner sprayed on, wait an 1/2 hour and rinse well. Down side is now you've introduced water to the wood and it might warp.

    Bleach a No go to lighten the wood as it destroys the cells.

    Turpentine, Alcohol, Simple Green(industrial) work well

    Brownells TCE degreaser is the best way. I found is best followed by Steel wool (00-0000), not sand paper. Lots of paper towels, a GI weapons toothbrush also to scrub

    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...ANER-DEGREASER

  11. #1316
    Senior Member Chulo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by He219 View Post
    ....
    Bent and heat-treated my own flats. The 105 has a custom 4 degree cut for the Izhevsk 100series folder.
    The RPK-74 has a custom 1.5mm flat, it's rock solid. Improvised the selector stamps with a letter punch set.
    Do you have a die?

  12. #1317
    Senior Member rhino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LineDoggie View Post
    Whoa, try a solvent first, Linseed Oil soaks into the wood and dries by Oxidation not Evaporation. Agressive sanding will just give you a bunch of low spots and irregular surface.

    I've seen and used

    Easy Off oven Cleaner sprayed on, wait an 1/2 hour and rinse well. Down side is now you've introduced water to the wood and it might warp.

    Bleach a No go to lighten the wood as it destroys the cells.

    Turpentine, Alcohol, Simple Green(industrial) work well

    Brownells TCE degreaser is the best way. I found is best followed by Steel wool (00-0000), not sand paper. Lots of paper towels, a GI weapons toothbrush also to scrub

    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...ANER-DEGREASER
    Thank you LD I'll try that, though the offending spot is inside the barrel chanel(barrel used to lean on the bottom and one side of it) didn't think of it back then but the spot is terribly blond, I want to redo the outside Ina nice shady color but I'm afraid whoever gets the gun next will need to replace the cheap stok

  13. #1318
    Krachslhuaba He219's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chulo View Post
    Do you have a die?
    Negative, went to a local Build Party to learn and used theirs.

  14. #1319
    Senior Member Chulo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by He219 View Post
    Negative, went to a local Build Party to learn and used theirs.
    Check this out. Looks way easier than any i have seen

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3H5EGr0gzdk

  15. #1320
    Senior Member LineDoggie's Avatar
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    Started a new restoration project for another NCO.

    Springfield Armory M1903 Rifle with barrel date of August 1918.
    Fitted with Straight grip stock Without finger grooves, so assuming a ****nal restocking post WWI. and an 03A3 swivel used

    Sourced new sling swivel and checkered milled buttplate, front sight cover, and M1907 sling

    *****ping the stock is horrendous, I've removed a quart milk jug worth of gummy Cosmoline from the stock and receiver.Every lightening gap in the stock was filled. The barrel had about a 1/8" coating of it from chamber to muzzle. the magazine box was completely filled as was the bore.

    Once its all degreased refinishing with BLO and Tung Oil after redyeing it

    Havent decided on metal finish yet, whether send out for Blue or Parkerizing, or if he wants it left as is.

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